Edith Hern Fossett (1787–1854) was an African American chef who for much of her life was enslaved by Thomas Jefferson before being freed. Three generations of her family, the Herns, worked in Jefferson's fields, performed domestic and leadership duties, and made tools. Like Hern, they also took care of children. She cared for Harriet Hemings, the daughter of Sally Hemings, at Thomas Jefferson's Monticello plantation when she was a girl.
Hern worked as a cook for President Jefferson at the President's House, now called the White House, with her sister-in-law Fanny Gillette Hern beginning in 1802. They learned to cook French cuisine from Honoré Julien, a French chef. Three of her children with Joseph Fossett were born during her tenure at the President's House. They stayed with her until 1809, the end of Jefferson's second term. While she worked in Washington, D.C., she did not receive a salary, but she earned a two-dollar a month gratuity.
When Hern returned to Monticello, she became the chief cook. She had access to a modern kitchen for its time, which allowed her to cook up to eight items on individually controlled burners, using up to 60 copperware pans and relying on the best tall clock in the house for timing. Her ingredients were freshly gathered from the plantation fields or its ancillary operations, such as the brewery. Every day, she created sumptuous meals—with multiple meat, vegetable, and dessert dishes—for 12 to 25 people a time.
Hern had ten children with her common-law husband, Joseph Fossett. The son of Mary Hemings, he lived at Monticello as a child and worked his way up from a nail-maker to chief blacksmith. Although Joseph Fossett was freed through Jefferson's will, Edith and nine of their ten children were put up for auction in 1827. One of their children had already been given away to Thomas Jefferson Randolph, Jefferson's grandson. Joseph was able to arrange for the purchase of Edith and two children in 1827 and more family members in 1837. That year, Joseph made a statement listing the family members, including Edith, who were emancipated and manumitted. Joseph and Edith moved to Ohio about 1837 and settled in Cincinnati in 1843. Most of Joseph and Edith's children were with them before they died in 1858 and 1854, respectively.
Early life
Edith Hern was born to David Hern (1755–after 1827) and Isabel Hern (1758–1819) of Monticello. David was an enslaved carpenter. Isabel was an enslaved woman who worked as a domestic and farm laborer. As a girl, Edith tended to Harriet Hemings, the daughter of Sally Hemings.
She had a number of siblings. Thruston was also trained by Julien and was then owned by Thomas Jefferson Randolph, Jefferson's grandson. Lily was her sister. James was an enslaved foreman of farm labor. James's wife was at another plantation. Moses was a blacksmith who would walk six miles from Monticello each Sunday to visit his wife and sons. James and Moses ultimately convinced Jefferson to buy their family members so that they could be together. David, also called Davy, was married to Fanny Gillette.
Three generations of the Hern family, which included Isabel and David's grandchildren, "raised Jefferson's crops, drove his wagons, cooked his meals, cared for his children, built his barns, directed his laborers, and made nails, barrels, plows and plow chains."
French cook
Jefferson, who was Minister to France in the late 18th century, enjoyed French cuisine, but employing a French chef for all of his dining and entertaining needs was financially out of reach for him. He therefore had French chefs train a few enslaved people to cook for him, starting with James Hemings who became his head chef at Hôtel de Langeac, his residence in Paris. Hemings was granted his freedom on February 5, 1796, after agreeing to train his brother Peter to cook.
President's House
When Thomas Jefferson was President, he brought Edith Hern and Fanny (Gillette) Hern to Washington, D.C. in 1802 and they learned to cook at the President's House. Edith was 15 years old and Fanny was 18. Honoré Julien, a French chef, taught them how to cook and create French-style foods and elegant desserts. Margaret Bayard Smith remarked of the food, "The excellence and superior skill of his [Jefferson's] French cook was acknowledged by all who frequented his table, for never before had such dinners been given in the President's House".