Marek Holeček (born 5 November 1974) is a Czech mountaineer, explorer, author and documentary filmmaker. Holeček has received the 2018 award for his successful full ascent on the southwest face of Gasherbrum I with Zdeněk Hák, which he achieved in Alpine style.
„My body has been systematically tortured for years in achieving one important skill for staying in the mountains, the art of hardship."
Awards and honors
2018 Piolet d'Or award for full ascent on the southwest face of Gasherbrum I with Zdeněk Hák. Czech Mountaineering Association awarded the Best Ascent of 2017 – first ascent to the eight-thousander Gasherbrum I. in Alpine style. Co-climber: Zdeněk Hák Nomination for the Piolet d'Or 2014 Prize (F & I) for the first ascent to Talung (7,348 m), Nepal. Co-climber: Zdeněk Hrubý Honorable recognition at in 2006 (GB) for the first-ascent to Meru Central (6,310 m), India Czech Mountaineering Association honorable recognition – 1997, 1999, 2001, 2012, 2014 Czech Mountaineering Association awarded the Best Ascent – 2000, 2002, 2003, 2006, 2008, 2013
Gasherbrum I SW Face, Piolet d'Or Award 2018
It took Holeček five attempts to finally complete his new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I, situated in the Baltoro region of Pakistan's Karakorum. Holeček succeeded together with his co-climber Zdeněk Hák on 30 July 2017. They named the new route Satisfaction! and they climbed it in pure Alpine style.
The route was rated ED+, M7, WI 5+, total inclination 70°.
In September 2018, they received the 2018 Piolet d'Or Award.
"Satisfaction!" Journey
In 2009 he climbed up the lefthand ice couloir in the central section of the face of Gasherbrum. Together with his climbing partner, Zdeněk Hrubý, he solved the first crux of the mixed terrain, an unclear passage from the couloir to the col, through the rock bottleneck at 7,400 meters, after their second bivy. The next day they reached 7,500 m to the base of the rock barrier, but they were forced to escape which resulted in 2,000 m of rappelling and down climbing. Hrubý suffered from perforated ulcers.
In 2013, the attempt ended tragically for Zdeněk Hrubý who slipped and tumbled to his death, taking all their climbing gear with him.
Next followed the 2015 attempt, where Holeček reached 7,400 m with Tomáš Petreček and had to retreat in the midst of avalanches and bad weather.
In 2016, together with Ondřej Mandula, they reached 7,700 m, but they were pinned down at 7,500 m with no way to escape for eight days. By the time they got down, Holeček sustained frostbite on his feet, resulting in more than six months of recovery.