At Jajce in the old days, the Kings of Bosnia had their castle, and the town was fortified and surrounded by walls; the ruins of walls and castles still remain. Next morning was again wet and I did not go out, finally we had a short shower, but after lunch it cleared. The landlord asked me if I would like to visit a Turkish lady. Of course I was delighted, and he accompanied me with Karabaich on the box, to a village about seven miles off, where a friend of his would take me into a Turkish house. We drove up to a “Theehütte” and were much refreshed and warmed by some delicious coffee, then I sallied forth with the landlady’s servant girl as interpreter, to call, as of course the landlord from Jajce could not even approach the doorstep! I could only speak German and the Turkish lady Bosnian, so without an interpreter our conversation would have been very limited. It was the proper thing to take presents with you, for the mother and children. I was at a loss to know where the presents were to be got in that tiny village, but the little maid took me to a shop, where we bought sweets for the children and a piece of soap, scented strongly with pachouli, for the lady. Armed with these we arrived on the doorstep. Into the house we walked without knocking—no doubt we were expected—and climbed some very steep stairs, went along a landing and entered a very comfortable sitting-room, with a divan all round it. There were one or two chairs, but the grandmother who came in to show some of her crotchet work, squatted on her heels on the floor. One little girl with hair of a most curious red came into the room. I heard afterwards it was dyed, and certainly the colour was most unnatural and never seen in genuine red hair. The grandmother wore a wig of this colour, and a tiny baby of one year also had it. I asked about this of the tea house landlady, and she told me they will dye a baby’s hair of even a month old. Several little boys peeped at me through a crack in the door, but they would not come in, so I gave the sweets to the girl, which she secreted inside the cupboard bed in the room, and the mother tucked her soap hurriedly away somewhere about her person. The room was very clean and neat, with rugs on the floor, and a quantity of coloured stuffs piled in one corner. A stove pipe came through the floor to warm it, but also I saw a curious stove in the corner, which looked as though it was ornamented with bottle ends in cement of some kind. The mother had been very good-looking; she remarked on my teeth with envious eyes as they were all there, and she had lost a good many of hers. The windows of the house were latticed, except those looking on to the river, where no one could see into the room. Mrs. Turk was very interested in my wedding ring, which she proposed to keep as a souvenir, but I expressed much regret that I could not part with it, as it was the English custom to wear our wedding rings for the rest of our lives, and my husband might be angry if I gave it away. No doubt she wondered what I was doing travelling alone, but she did not ask me. After a cup of Turkish coffee I left. I was really highly entertained by my visit.