Curious scene in the interior of the palace of Cintra.--Singular invitation.--Dinner with the Archbishop Confessor.--Hilarity and shrewd remarks of that extraordinary personage. 169
Explore the Cintra Mountains.--Convent of Nossa Senhora da Penha.--Moorish Ruins.--The Cork Convent.--The Rock of Lisbon.--Marine Scenery.--Susceptible imagination of the Ancients exemplified. 179
Excursion to Penha Verde.--Resemblance of that Villa to the edifices in Caspar Poussin’s landscapes.--The ancient pine-trees, said to have been planted by Don John de Castro.--The old forests displaced by gaudy terraces.--Influx of visitors.--A celebrated Prior’s erudition and strange anachronisms.--The Beast in the Apocalypse.--Œcolampadius.--Bevy of Palace damsels.--Fête at the Marialva Villa.--The Queen and the Royal Family.--A favourite dwarf Negress.--Dignified manner of the Queen.--Profound respect inspired by her presence.--Rigorous etiquette.--Grand display of Fireworks.--The young Countess of Lumieres.--Affecting resemblance. 189
Cathedral of Lisbon.--Trace of St. Anthony’s fingers.--The Holy Crows.--Party formed to visit them.--A Portuguese poet.--Comfortable establishment of the Holy Crows.--Singular tradition connected with them.--Illuminations in honour of the Infanta’s accouchement.--Public harangues.--Policarpio’s singing, and anecdotes of the _haute noblesse_. 201
Rambles in the Valley of Collates.--Elysian scenery.--Song of a young female peasant.--Rustic hospitality.--Interview with the Prince of Brazil in the plains of Cascais.--Conversation with His Royal Highness.--Return to Ramalhaô. 212
Convent of Boa Morte.--Emaciated priests.--Austerity of the Order.--Contrite personages.--A _nouveau riche_.--His house.--Walk on the veranda of the palace at Belem.--Train of attendants at dinner.--Portuguese gluttony.--Black dose of legendary superstition.--Terrible denunciations.--A dreary evening. 229
Rehearsal of Seguidillas.--Evening scene.--Crowds of beggars.--Royal charity misplaced.--Mendicant flattery.--Frightful countenances.--Performance at the Salitri theatre.--Countess of Pombeiro and her dwarf negresses.--A strange ballet.--Return to the Palace.--Supper at the Camareira Mor’s.--Filial affection.--Last interview with the Archbishop.--Fatal tide of events.--Heart-felt regret on leaving Portugal. 235