Previous to the priming coat of paint being applied to any article made of pine or other wood containing knots it is necessary to protect such knots by applying one or two coats of a liquid known in the trade as "knotting." If this were not done the rosin which exudes more or less from the knots would penetrate the paint, discolour it and give a very unsightly appearance.
The best knotting consists of shellac dissolved in alcohol, usually in the form of methylated spirits; in other words, it is shellac spirit varnish. Many inferior grades, however, are sold in which the shellac is adulterated with rosin or other substances, while the alcohol is sometimes replaced wholly or in part with naphtha. These inferior qualities of knotting should never be used, as they are very likely indeed to cause trouble and spoil the whole job.
Although the parts of machines such as agricultural implements are usually made of selected and well-seasoned timber, it sometimes happens that portions of the work are found to be more or less sappy. This should also be coated with knotting, as otherwise they will absorb the paint to too great an extent and the priming coat will not be uniform.
In passing, it may be observed that a coat of shellac varnish--a term, as already explained, which is synonymous with knotting--is very useful as an undercoat whenever there is an excess of rosin as in pitch pine. It is also used to stop suction on plaster ornaments which are finished in imitation bronze, and which may successfully be used over tar or tar spots which it is desired to paint.
It is very important that knotting be applied in quite thin coats, and it is for this reason that usually two coats are given. If it is too thick it fails to dry properly. Thick knotting may be used if it be well brushed out, but this is almost impossible in applying it to the knots of ordinary woodwork which are merely "dabbed" with the end of the brush; moreover, such work is usually done by piece work, hence two coats are much safer to use.
It is sometimes necessary before dipping or spraying cast iron work to fill up sand flaws and inequalities. This may be effectually done by using a filler prepared as follows: Mix together equal parts of genuine red lead and gilders' whiting and add two parts of boiled linseed oil and one part of goldsize. It will be found most effective to mix the two liquids last mentioned before adding them to the dry lead and whiting. Thoroughly mix all together, or, preferably, grind through a mill until the putty-like consistency is obtained. This stopping will dry very hard. It is important to remember that this filler must be mixed in small quantities as required as it rapidly becomes hard, so that if a considerable quantity were made at one time any unused would become spoiled.