They were up long before daybreak--they breakfasted by the light of a weak candle--and, just as the sun was preparing to show himself at the eastern horizon, they mounted their horses, and rode away in the direction of the Holy City.
At the edge of the town they found a row of beggars drawn up at the roadside, or, rather, squatted on the ground, and imploring the travellers for charity. Several were blind, and others had lost their hands or fingers, and held up the mutilated stumps to attract attention. The guide said that some of them were lepers; but the majority had caused their hands to be cut off, or it had been done by their parents, in order to fit them for the mendicant profession.
Frank gave a small coin to one of the beggars, and immediately all that could walk joined in pursuing the travellers, who only escaped annoyance by quickening the speed of their horses. The Doctor said it was one of the misfortunes of thus attempting to be charitable in Syria, that you are immediately beset by all the beggars in sight. The one to whom you have made a donation joins in the assault, and clamors for more, and sometimes he is more persistent than any of the rest. A traveller is apt to have his heart hardened under such circumstances, and, as it is impossible for him to give to everybody, he very soon settles the matter by refusing to give at all. The government has suppressed the beggars of Ramleh by moving them to other localities. The most of them find their way back again before long, and the places of those who do not return are speedily filled by others.
For three hours the route was much like that of the day before--though, as they approached the mountains, the land was less fertile, and the products of the plain gave place to those of the higher ground. At Bab-el-Wady, or the Gate of the Glen, they entered the mountains, and left the low land of Sharon behind them. Occasionally looking back, they found they were steadily rising, as the land lay lower and lower at each view, and the shining waters of the Mediterranean occupied a larger space in the horizon. The guide pointed out the ruins of a village which tradition asserts was the residence of the thief who became penitent on the cross. The region was once a resort of robbers, and down to the beginning of the present century, and even later, it had a very bad reputation. There is a small hotel at the entrance of the valley. The guide had arranged that luncheon should be served here, and the result of the morning's ride made everybody ready to sit down as soon as the table was prepared.