Size and varnish the uprights with one coat of size and two of hard oak varnish. In fixing, you merely turn the screw-eye into the floor or stakes, and attach the stays (C C) to them.
with wooden uprights to fix in the ground.
_Tools._--Same as for Horizontal Bar, Fig. 1.
2 Yellow battens 15 ft. long, 7 in. by 4 in., at 5_d._ 12 6 1 Yellow 14 ft. long, 7 in. by 2-1/2 in., at 3-1/2_d._ 4 1 4 Struts 5 ft. long, 4 ft. by 1-1/2 in. 1 3 4 Runners 3 ft. long, 2 in. by 2 in. 1 0 1 Ash bar 6 ft. long, 1-7/8 in. diameter, with 2-in. square ends 6 6 1 Facia board 6 ft. long, 6 in. by 1 in. 0 6 20 Nails 2-1/2 in. long 0 4 4 Spikes 4 in. long 0 2 16 Screws No. 16, 3 in. long 0 8 2 Pins 6 in. by 3/8 in. diameter 0 8 3 lb. lead-colour paint, at 8_d._ 2 0 1-1/2 lb. ultramarine blue, at 1_s._ 1 6 ----------- £1 11 2 ===========
Fig. 3 represents the Lawn Gymnasium with some of its appendages. My object now is to show you how to construct the frame, and, of course, when that is done you can add whatever you like, as, for instance, climbing-rope or pole, hand-rings (H H), trapeze bar, foot or sitting swing (G), vaulting and horizontal bar (F), etc.
On referring to the quantities you will find there are two yellow battens 15 ft. long; these form the uprights (A A); 3 feet has to go into the ground, leaving 12 feet for the height of the swing. The top (B), 7 feet in length, is cut off the 14-ft. length, the remaining 7 ft. is again cut in the centre to form the two sole-pieces (D D), 3 ft. 6 in. each; these are then halved into the bottom of the uprights in centre, and the struts (E E E E) nailed on as shown. The top can be either morticed on to the uprights or secured by strong iron brackets. The inch facia board (C) is nailed on the top for ornament, as are also the cornice pole-ends.
The 2-inch square runners are secured on the uprights with the 3-inch screws (four to each runner), 3 feet from the ground and 2 inches apart, leaving a groove or space between them for the ends of the bar to slide up and down. For vaulting purposes these runners have to be bored through with a 3/8-in. nose or spoon-bit (a gimlet would split the wood); the holes must be about three inches apart from the top to bottom, and are intended to take the 3/8-in. pin which is to support the bar.