A buck haunch generally weighs from 20 to 25 pounds; will take about four hours and a half roasting in warm, and longer in cold weather: a haunch of from 19 to 18 pounds will be done in about three or three and a half.
A quarter of an hour before it is done, the string must be cut, and the paste carefully taken off; now baste it with butter, dredge it lightly with flour, and when the froth rises, and it has got a very light brown colour, garnish the knuckle-bone with a ruffle of cut writing-paper, and send it up, with good, strong (but unseasoned) gravy (No. 347) in one boat, and currant-jelly sauce in the other, or currant-jelly in a side plate (not melted): see for sauces, Nos. 344, 5, 6, and 7. MEM. "_the alderman's walk_" is the favourite part.
_Obs._ Buck venison is in greatest perfection from midsummer to Michaelmas, and doe from November to January.
_Neck and Shoulder of Venison_,--(No. 64.)
Are to be managed in the same way as the haunch; only they do not require the coat or paste, and will not take so much time.
The best way to spit a neck is to put three skewers through it, and put the spit between the skewers and the bones.
Like a sucking-pig, should be dressed almost as soon as killed. When very young, it is trussed, stuffed, and spitted the same way as a hare: but they are better eating when of the size of a house lamb, and are then roasted in quarters; the hind-quarter is most esteemed.
They must be put down to a very quick fire, and either basted all the time they are roasting, or be covered with sheets of fat bacon; when done, baste it with butter, and dredge it with a little salt and flour, till you make a nice froth on it.
N.B. We advise our friends to half roast a fawn as soon as they receive it, and then make a hash of it like No. 528.
Send up venison sauce with it. See the preceding receipt, or No. 344, &c.
A young sucking-kid is very good eating; to have it in prime condition, the dam should be kept up, and well fed, &c.
"_Inter quadrupedes gloria prima lepus._"--MARTIAL.
The first points of consideration are, how old is the hare? and how long has it been killed? When young, it is easy of digestion, and very nourishing; when old, the contrary in every respect.