It has been said of the Bras d’Or that it is the most beautiful salt-water lake ever seen. The substance of Warner’s comment is seen to be true by all who visit these shores. “The water runs into lovely bays and lagoons, having slender tongues of land and picturesque islands. It has all the pleasantness of a fresh-water lake, with all the advantages of a salt one.” There is practically no tide, the comparatively narrow sea entrances acting to resist the flow of water out and in. The difference in level is usually less than a foot.
[Illustration: Boularderie Island, Bras d’Or Lake]
One or more of the numerous cruises on these waters, described later, should be taken, as well as the journey over the railway, now resumed.
The view of the lake as McKinnon’s Harbor is approached is beautiful. The tree growth is larger, fantastic little islands dot the smooth water, and the whole panorama of mainland, island and broad lake is indeed magnificent. Nearing Iona the peculiar appearance of the landscape whitened by the outcroppings of gypsum or plaster rock is very noticeable. In many places the shore view of headland and water is very similar to that on the Atlantic coast, except in the placidity of the water. At Ottawa Brook a lovely view of island-dotted lake is seen stretching out in a far-away and pleasing vista to the south. At a small siding, nearby, a small meadow stream meanders fantastically through a verdant plain that is dotted with haystacks, and has here and there little bridges raised high above the general level to keep them secure in the time of spring and flood—a time of utmost consequence to farmers of intervale, for it brings rich deposits of alluvial mud to fertilize the low-lying fields.
From Iona, and Grand Narrows on the opposite shore, the steamer _Bluehill_ makes connections for Baddeck, and from Grand Narrows another boat leaves for St. Peter’s and other points. At Iona station, by the “narrows,” passengers may take the opportunity of alighting to see the fine Intercolonial Railway bridge that spans the channel. It has a “draw” near the Grand Narrows side to allow vessels to pass from upper lake to lower, or the reverse. Grand Narrows attracts tourists to its comfortable hotel on the water, as it makes a good centre for seeing the surrounding country. It is also a place of call for the lake steamboats. There are fine views to be had in the vicinity.