Smithy Bridge 202-1/2 (Cross Lancaster Canal.)
Brock’s Bridge 225-1/2 (Cross River Wyre.)
Lowther Bridge 285-1/2 (Cross River Lowther.)
Carleton 302-1/2 (Cross Petterill Brook.)
Carlisle (Clock Tower) 305-1/4 (Cross River Eden.)
Johnstone Bridge 340-1/4 (Cross River Annan.)
Elvanfoot Bridge 362-1/2 (Cross River Clyde.)
Denighton Bridge 370 (Cross a Branch of the Clyde.)
Bothwell Bridge 396-3/4 (Cross River Clyde.)
CARLISLE TO GLASGOW (EXCHANGE) DIRECT, BY TELFORD’S NEW ROAD, AVOIDING LONGTOWN, SPRINGFIELD, AND MOFFAT.
WAITING TO CHANGE (_After J. F. Herring_) _Frontispiece_
THE BUILDING OF MANCUNIUM (_From the fresco by Ford Madox Brown_) 7
PRESTON: TOWN HALL, HARRIS PUBLIC LIBRARY, AND SESSIONS HOUSE 99
LANCASTER SANDS (_After J. M. W. Turner, R.A._) 127
SOLWAY MOSS (_After J. M. W. Turner, R.A._) 215
“A FALSE ALARM ON THE ROAD: ’TIS ONLY THE MAIL!” (_After C. B. Newhouse_) 223
“ONE MILE FROM GRETNA: THE GOVERNOR IN SIGHT, WITH A SCREW LOOSE” (_After C. B. Newhouse_) 231
THE DUMFRIES COACH (_After C. B. Newhouse_) 255
THE GLASGOW MAIL (_After James Pollard_) 275
Miserere Seat, Manchester Cathedral: The Pedlar and the Monkeys 19
The Market Cross and Pillory, Burton-in-Kendal 136
The “Duke of Cumberland” Inn, and Farleton Knott 137
Kendal Castle, and the Road into Kendal 138
Map of Old and New Roads from Carlisle to Gretna Green 211
Filial Affection (_After Rowlandson_) 221
The Deaf Post-Boy (_After Cruikshank_) 233
Ecclefechan: Showing Birthplace of Thomas Carlyle 265
London Road Railway Station nowadays marks the beginning of central Manchester. Hitherto the long, long approach, although busy and crowded, has been, if not a thought suburban, at least busy chiefly on the retail scale. Here, however, where the railway brings travellers in from London, you see Manchester as the great city of immense warehouses: the place that no longer manufactures but deals in bulk and by wholesale with the goods produced in a dependent circle of towns.
From London Road you come immediately into Piccadilly, which is not in the least like the Piccadilly in London; and there you find yourself at the very hub of Manchester’s hurly-burly. There is perhaps not much significance in all this to the commercial man who travels down by express from London, and merely rouses himself from his newspaper to alight and then to take a cab from this railway terminus to one of the others, or to his business appointments; but to trace the road down from London on a bicycle and thus enter Manchester is to understand the great metropolis of cotton as it really is in relation to the rest of the country. To such a traveller the noise, the crowds, the furious energy, and the great sooty piles of buildings are not a little terrible. There is much good modern architecture in Manchester’s streets, but a black cloak covers it all. And yet the sky, though generally overcast, for the climate of Manchester is tearful, is not scored with smoke-wreaths, and factory-chimneys are not a feature of Manchester itself. The sooty deposit comes insensibly in the air from the outer ring of towns, and although it is not evident in the sky, it very soon tones down brick and stone and terra-cotta to one dull monotone. For all the rain that washes the city, it does not suffice to cleanse away its coating of soot. The blackness of Manchester is the first characteristic that impresses itself upon the stranger. It greatly impressed the first Shah of Persia who visited England: Nasr-ed-din, who came in 1873, and afterwards wrote an account of his travels. “The City of Manchester,” he wrote, “by reason of its exceeding number of manufactures, has its houses, doors, and walls black as coal, and the complexions, visages, and the dress of people are all black. The whole of the ladies of that place at most times wear black clothing, because no sooner do they put on white or coloured garments, than they are suddenly black!”