ORTOLAN, a European yellowish-brown
bunting (Emberiza hortulana) famous as a
dainty. It is migratory, spreading over northern
Europe in summer to breed, and making its
nest in bushes or small trees, and singing
pleasantly. Toward autumn, when it begins to
migrate southward, it is plump and regarded as
excellent eating. These birds are caught in
great numbers, at that season along the shores
of Italy and the eastern Mediterranean, and are
kept in confinement and fed for some time until
they become exceedingly fat and delicate, and
form a table luxury. The favorite method of
preparing the ortolans for table consists in
roasting them in egg shells — a mode of cookery
borrowed from the ancients, among whom these
birds brought very high prices. In former times
the island of Cyprus formed a chief depot for
the exportation of these birds, which were
pickled in spices and vinegar and packed in
casks containing from 300 to 400 each. From
400 to 500 casks are annually exported from
Cyprus.