The material is now fit for “felting,” or “fulling,” as it is called, which is done in the “fulling mill.” The process consists in thoroughly beating the cloth with heavy wooden mallets or “stocks” for ten or twelve hours, it being at the same time wetted with soap and water, and folded into a mass of many layers. This beating causes the fibres to interlace and adhere together till the cross-bar pattern made by the warp and weft in weaving is obliterated, and the cloth has the appearance of a felted surface, which, however, is rugged and uneven. It is next “teazled,” a process formerly performed by means of a bundle of thistle-heads--called “teazles”--which were dragged over the cloth, so as to raise the ends of the woollen fibres perpendicular to the surface; but this is now performed by machinery, the teazles being fixed round a roller turning one way, while the cloth is moved in an opposite direction. In some machines wire brushes are used instead of teazles. The cloth is next “milled,” or “sheared,” which is done by stretching it out on a perfectly level surface, where a pair of circular knives fixed to a wheel work over it and “shear” off the fibres, leaving the surface perfectly even. It is now wetted, brushed, and finally dried and packed in a finished state.
The art of weaving threads of various descriptions is one of the oldest, and is frequently mentioned in the Scriptures and other ancient records. It consists in so crossing or interlacing the fibres that they shall form fabrics fitted for the various requirements to which they are applied.
Weaving, as now performed by machinery, for the production of what are called “textile fabrics,” is far too complicated to be here described in detail, the machines which are used being amongst the most complicated contrivances of men’s hands. Dr. Ure says of the weaving of “bobbin-net,”--“It may be said to surpass every other branch of human industry in the complex ingenuity of its machinery; one of ‘Fisher’s spotting-frames’ being as much beyond the most curious chronometer as that is beyond a common roasting-jack.” The principle is, however, nearly the same, whether performed by hand or by machinery, but some of the more complex fabrics could only be produced by hand, and by those few who may have devoted great talents and years of application to the acquirement of the requisite skill, whereas a machine once made can be imitated by ordinary workmen, and itself worked by unskilled mechanics.