Schutzenberger observes that the vats of fermentation are subject to certain maladies, the two most frequent of which are due, one to an excess, and the other to an insufficient quantity of lime. “In the first case, the liquid takes a tint more and more free of color, loses its _fleurée_ (surface scum) and odor; the fermentation is then arrested by the precipitation of the active matters. This inconvenience is remedied, if seen in time, by adding sulphate of iron, which eliminates the too great excess of lime. In the second, the fermentation becomes too active, passes into a putrid fermentation, and the liquid assumes a reddish tint; a fabric dyed with indigo in this state becomes very soon discolored. The sole means of safety is to heat the bath up to 90° and to add lime. If this does not accomplish the purpose of arresting the putrefaction the vat is lost.”

The following account of the method of dyeing woollen goods with indigo by means of the woad vat is given by Dr. Ure, as that carried on in Yorkshire, the great centre of the woollen manufacture of England.

Notes Upon Indigo — Part 29

“The dye-vats employed are circular, having a diameter of six feet six inches, and depth of seven feet, and are made of cast-iron five-eighths of an inch in thickness. They are surrounded by brickwork, a space of three inches in width being left between the brickwork and the iron, for the purpose of admitting steam, by means of which the vats are heated. The interior surface of the brickwork is well cemented. In setting a vat the following materials are used: 5 cwt. of woad, 30 lbs. of indigo, 56 lbs. of bran, 7 lbs. of madder, 10 quarts of lime. The woad supplied to the Yorkshire dyers is grown and prepared in Lincolnshire. It is in the form of a thick, brownish yellow paste, having a strong ammoniacal smell. The indigo is ground with water in the usual manner. The madder acts in promoting fermentation, but it also serves to give a reddish tinge to the color. The lime is prepared by putting quicklime into a basket, then dipping it in water for an instant, lifting it out again, and then passing it through a sieve, by which means it is reduced to a fine powder, called by the dyers _ware_. The vat is first filled with water, which is heated to 140° F., after which the materials are put in, and the whole is well stirred until the woad is dissolved or diffused, and it is then left to stand undisturbed overnight; at six o’clock the next morning the liquor is again stirred up, and five quarts more of lime are added; at ten o’clock five pints of lime are again thrown in, and at twelve o’clock the heat is raised to 120° F., which temperature must be kept up until three o’clock, when another quart of lime is introduced. The vat is now ready for dyeing. When the process of fermentation is proceeding in a regular manner, the liquid, though muddy from insoluble vegetable matter in suspension, is of a yellow or olive yellow color; its surface is covered with a blue froth or copper-colored pellicle, and it exhales a peculiar ammoniacal odor; at the bottom of the vat there is a mass of undissolved, matter of a dirty yellow color. If there is an excess of lime present, the liquor has a dark green color, and is covered with a grayish film, and, when agitated, the bubbles which are formed agglomerate on the surface, and are not easily broken. Cloth dyed in a liquid of this kind loses its color on being washed. This state of the vat is remedied by the addition of bran, and is of no serious consequence. When, on the other hand, there is a deficiency of lime, or, in other words, when the fermentation is too active, the liquor acquires first a drab, then a clay-like color; when agitated, the bubbles which form on its surface burst easily, and when stirred up from the bottom with a rake it effervesces slightly, or _frits_, as the dyers say. If the fermentation be not checked at this stage, putrefaction soon sets in, the liquid begins to exhale a fetid odor, and when stirred evolves large quantities of gas, which burns with a blue flame on the application of a light. The indigo is now totally destroyed, and the contents of the vat may be thrown away. No further addition of woad is required after the introduction of the quantity taken in first setting the vat, the fermentation being kept up by adding daily about four pounds of bran with one quart or three quarts of lime. Indigo is also added daily for about three or four months. The vat is then used for the purpose of dyeing light shades, until the indigo contained in it is quite exhausted, and its contents are then thrown away.”

Notes Upon Indigo — Part 29