An is a belt of varying size and shape worn with both traditional Japanese clothing and uniforms for Japanese martial arts styles. Originating as a simple thin belt in Heian period Japan, the developed over time into a belt with a number of different varieties, with a number of different sizes and proportions, lengths, and methods of tying. The , which once did not differ significantly in appearance between men and women, also developed into a greater variety of styles for women than for men.
Despite the kimono having been at one point and continuing to appear to be held shut by the , many modern are too wide and stiff to function in this way, with a series of ties known as , worn underneath the , used to keep the kimono closed instead.
are categorised by their design, formality, material, and use, and can be made of a number of types of fabric, with heavy brocade weaves worn for formal occasions, and some lightweight silk worn for informal occasions. are also made from materials other than silk, such as cotton, hemp and polyester, though silk are considered a necessity for formal occasions. In the modern day, pre-tied , known as or , are also worn, and do not appear any different to a regular when worn.
Though can be inexpensive when bought second-hand, they typically cost more than a kimono, particularly when purchased brand-new. A number of specialist fabrics used particularly to make are highly prized for their craftsmanship and reputation of quality, such as , produced in the Nishijin district of Kyoto, and produced in Fukuoka prefecture.
History
Heian period to Edo period
In its early days, the was a cord or ribbon-like sash, approximately in width. Men's and women's were similar. At the beginning of the 17th century, both women and men wore a thin, ribbon-like . By the 1680s, the width of women's had already doubled from its original size. In the 1730s women's were about wide, and at the turn of the 19th century were as wide as . At that time, separate ties and cords were necessary to hold the in place. Men's were widest in the 1730s, at about .
Before the Edo period, which began in the mid-1600s, robes were fastened with a narrow sash at the hips. The mode of attaching the sleeve widely to the torso part of the garment would have prevented the use of wider . When the sleeves of the began to grow in both horizontal width and vertical length at the beginning of the Edo period, the widened as well. There were two reasons for this: firstly, to maintain the aesthetic balance of the outfit, the longer sleeves needed a wider sash to accompany them; secondly, unlike today (where they are customary only for unmarried women) married women also wore long-sleeved kimono in the 1770s. The use of long sleeves without leaving the underarm open would have hindered movements greatly. These underarm openings in turn made room for even wider .
Originally, all were tied in the front. Later, fashion began to affect the position of the knot, and could be tied to the side or to the back. As grew wider the knots grew bigger, and it became cumbersome to tie the in the front. By the end of the 17th century were mostly tied in the back. However, the custom did not become firmly established before the beginning of the 20th century.
At the end of the 18th century, it was fashionable for a woman's to have overly long hems that were allowed to trail behind when in house. For moving outside, the excess cloth was tied up beneath the with a wide cloth ribbon called . Contemporary women's kimono are made similarly over-long, but the hems are not allowed to trail; the excess cloth is tied up to hips, forming a fold called the . are still used, but only as a decorative accessory.
Modern day
The most formal women's , the , is technically obsolete, worn only by some brides, with a modified, longer version - the (lit., "dangling ") - worn by , in the present day. The lighter has taken the place of . The originally-everyday is the most common used today, and fancy may even be accepted as a part of a semi-ceremonial outfit.
The use of fancy, decorative knots has also narrowed, though mainly through the drop in the numbers of women wearing kimono on a regular basis, with most women tying their in the (lit., "drum knot") style. , also known as , have gained popularity as pre-tied belts accessible to those with mobility issues or a lack of knowledge on how to wear .
Tatsumura Textile located in Nishijin in Kyoto is a centre of manufacture today. Founded by Heizo Tatsumura I in the 19th century, it is renowned for making some of the most luxurious available. Amongst Tatsumura's students studying design was the later-painter Inshō Dōmoto.