Visit to Cayapas....Village....Inhabitants....Houses and Furniture ....Visit to the Malabas, Wild Indians....Arrival at the Vijia.... Interview with the Cacique, Family of....Tribe of the Malabas.... Tradition of the Origin of....Dress of....Manners....Laws....Return to Cayapas....Visit Tumaco....Description of....Barbacoas.... Description of....Gold Mines....Manner of Working them....Leave the Coast, Malbucho Road....River Mira...._Puentes de Maroma_, and _Taravitas_...._Piquigua_....Arrive at Ibarra, and Return to Rio Verde and Esmeraldas....Ascend the River Quinindi....Boa Constrictors....Santo Domingo de los Colorados....Indians....Dress ....Houses....Food....Cocaniguas....Quito.
During my stay on the coast I visited the new village of Cayapas: it is composed of indians, living entirely free from the controul of any Spanish governor or any authority. So ignorant were they of the forms of the Spanish administration, that they only considered the royal audience to be superior to their own alcalde. They did not even know what the royal audience was, and they repeatedly called me the royal audience, having mistaken the expression of the lieutenant-governor of La Tola, who told them the royal audience expected they would attend on me, and procure for me whatever I might want.
After a tedious journey up the river Tola, in a canoe, managed by four indians, I arrived at New Cayapas, and was received by the alcalde, who insisted on my taking possession of his baston, insignia of authority, and retaining it as long as I remained with them: he ordered the indians to obey me, and they advanced one after another to kiss the head of the baston, and accompanied me to the house of the alcalde, which was situated about thirty yards from the river side.
Cayapas scarcely deserves the name of a hamlet, there being only a small church, the house for the parish priest, and two others; but the situation is most beautiful: the small river, navigable for canoes, the rich foliage of the large trees which overhang it, the branches in some parts meeting each other, the enormous banana leaves, the stately coco palm, and the verdant gamalote, every where enrich the scene. Houses are scattered along the sides of the river, each having its small plantation of sugar-cane, yucas, and camotes, its hogs and its poultry.