"Calais, as we approached it, is seen to much advantage, the spire of _Notre Dame_, and the turrets of the _Maison de Ville_ nobly arising over the waves, have certainly a fine and imposing effect; it is indeed a neat and handsome town; the harbour presents a pleasant and enlivening scene, and is defended by many forts. The citadel is strongly fortified, and the city surrounded with walls, gates, &c. The parish church was built by the English, and has been much admired for its architecture. The fishery here for herrings and mackerel is considerable, and of both kinds we partook with much _gout_ during our short sojourn in that ancient city.
"You know what an incurable enthusiast my Adelaide is. During the entire progress of our voyage, which occupied some five hours, the whole way from Dover to Calais Adelaide sat on deck, and could not be prevailed upon, by any persuasion or entreaty whatever, to descend into our cabin, although the wind, which was fair, blew also fresh, and accompanied with some showers; still stationed on deck sat Adelaide, intently gazing upon the Shakespeare-cliffs,
"From the dread summit of this chalky bourn; Look up a height ... the shrill gorg'd lark so far Cannot be seen or heard:--do but look up!"
"So intently did Adelaide gaze, that one would have thought that the spell-bound charm that fascinated her looks to those lofty cliffs, could only be broken and dispelled by the wand of the enchanter. The following quatrain is my Adelaide's:--
Ye chalky cliffs! unchang'd ye stand, As pencil'd by great Shakespeare's hand; Still to the clouds your summits rise, Nor perish until nature dies!
"Never once changing her position on deck sat the fair enthusiast, until cliff and sky became commingled in one dark-blue mass, and soon completely lost in aërial distance.
"We viewed the church of _Notre Dame_ at Calais, where there is an ill-executed, clumsy statue of the Virgin and Child in statuary marble; the walls are surrounded with paintings of Scriptural subjects, but the design and the execution are very _mediocrè_. As we walked around the walls of this memorable town, we could not but recollect, with the deepest interest, that this city had for upwards of two hundred years appertained to the crown of Britain;--that here had been manifested the most generous and devoted love of country;--that here our own Edward triumphed over the arms, as the benevolent Emma did over the hearts, of the patriot citizens of Calais.