In marking out a cumber board for a lay-over, or repeating pattern--if, say, 108 hooks are required for each repeat, which makes 13-1/2 rows of an 8-row machine--if the broken row is to the left-hand side of the painting, and the harness mounted from left to right, then the first four holes of the first row of each repeat of the pattern are marked out in the cumber board to be left empty, as shown in Fig. 65. When mounting, no attention would be paid to the cords on the half-row of the machine till the first four rows along the cumber board have been filled, the mounter beginning with the back cord on the first full row of the machine, which is the fifth hook of the tie. Three rows for the selvage, which is on four hooks at the front of the harness, are shown at S, Fig. 65.

The front of a jacquard is generally considered by workmen to be the cylinder side. Of course, when there is a cylinder on each side there is neither front nor back to it. Sometimes it is very confusing talking of the front and back, one considering it to mean the front of the harness, or front of the loom, and another taking it to be the front or cylinder side of the jacquard, which is usually at the back of the loom for Norwich ties. Of course, the front of the loom is where the weaver stands, or where the cloth is made, and the front of the harness is towards the front of the loom. It simplifies matters greatly by not minding the back or front of the machine, but speaking of every part of the harness, &c., towards the front of the loom as the front of it.

Jacquard Weaving and Designing — Part 62

It frequently happens that figured stripes are required, running up plain or fancy textured goods, either forming borders to the outer edges, or merely ornamental stripes, say 3 or 4 inches from the edges of the cloth, as in towels, toilet-covers, &c. For this class of work it is generally most advisable to work the stripes with a small jacquard, and the plain or fancy texture of the body of the cloth with a shaft mounting. Fig. 66 shows a mounting of this class; the shafts can be wrought by tappets in the usual way, and small cumber boards, as A, A^1, are fastened to the top rail of the loom for the harness to pass through. It is usual to keep the harness behind the heddles, and it is levelled in the usual way. The yarn may or may not be on the same beam for both portions, according to whether the take-up, or shrinkage, will be the same for both portions or not. Sometimes the shrinkage may be regulated to be alike in both by using different counts of yarn, or drawing it thicker into the reed; but perhaps in most cases two beams would be desirable, unless the texture is much alike for both the stripes and body of the cloth.

Jacquard Weaving and Designing — Part 62