_Tuesday, Jan. 3._—The morning has been unusually cool. The men were lazy, and did not start with the first breeze. They require more urging than is pleasant. We have seen great numbers of crocodiles. Doctor has a cold and headache. Stopped “to get wood.” Stopped again “to get greens.” This time was righteously indignant and told the men they would not stop again while the wind blew. A sharp bend in the river. The town of Sigada on the west side. Low mountains in the distance on the east side. As we approached them we found that they come close to the river. Sandstone and limestone rocks. Miserable sailing! The worst I ever saw. We had a fine breeze, and yet the sails were set in such a way that they flapped and threatened to turn inside out. Stood it as long as I could, then took things into my own hands and ordered the sails set to suit me. All at once, in the afternoon, the main sheet broke, and away went the sail. The men stood and looked at it, hoping it would somehow get right, while we floated down stream. Saw about 20 ft. of high bank cave in with a great splash. The pyramids of Meroe came in sight. We counted eight of them. This would be an interesting spot to visit, but relic hunting is not our business just now. A large island stands in front of them. We saw five large crocodiles sunning themselves on a point of land. Doctor shot at one of them, and the result was that he hurried off into the water. The nights are beautiful. It is full moon, and so we sail on while the wind lasts. While everything was going nicely, and our course as plain by moonlight as by day, the men suddenly got frightened. They thought there was a sand-bar just ahead. The rudder was put hard over. We went clear to the other side of the river, where they actually managed to find a bar and stick on it. Then they had to pole back to where they were before, and found their former course all right. These men really do not know any more about managing a boat than the man in the moon.
_Wednesday, Jan. 4._—Was up in the night to see about the sailing. Dared not trust the men. We have had a good breeze, but made miserable time. We stopped a little while for wood, and then stood out with a good wind. A merchant boat came up in the rear, passed us, and left us far behind. The Doctor is feeling rather poorly. We reached Shendy about noon, and were fully an hour in passing it. This is a large town. We saw about a thousand cattle on the bank, and camels coming and going. The larger proportion of the houses that are visible from the river have been destroyed by the rains and stand in ruins. This is said to be a very healthy place, and it has every appearance of it. The desert comes to the river. About eight fine sycamore trees in one place on the bank make a fine site for a building. There are other trees near. A wall has been built along the river to protect the bank. Here we saw a number of whirlwinds carrying the desert sand hundreds of feet into the air. The town of El Metammeh, on the west side, and a few miles farther up the river is a very large place—said to be larger than Berber. Here also the desert comes to the river. The town stands back a little, and the banks are not quite so high. We rounded a point. A fine wind was blowing, but the men insisted that they must put to shore “to pick up the sail,” or in other words tighten the rigging. Soon after I found them sitting on the bank contemplating the rigging instead of working at it, and sailed into them lively. They soon had it done.