When twilling a pattern of this description, the portion marked A would be twilled straight across, and this twilling would be continued to the centre of B, as shown in Fig. 86, which gives the idea, the spots in the centre being taken as the single portion. The portion marked C is repeated from the first part A by the harness, and does not require to be put on the painting; in the figure it is shown (in different type) as it would fall on the cloth. It may be seen that the twilling dots on the last line of A and the first line of C are alike, and that every pair of lines corresponds, moving from these to the edges of the pattern. Now a turn must be made in the twill in the single portion so as to make it join correctly with C, and this should be done in such a manner as to prevent it from showing plainly on the cloth, or having too long floats on some of the threads while others are too closely bound. This must be done by setting the dots out of their places on a few lines in the centre, so as to make the join produce as even a texture as possible. Advantage should always be taken of any portions of the pattern that come on this part, such as the spots in Fig. 86, to turn the twill round the edges of them. By following the dots on the design paper, it will be seen how they are brought in at the join. Any twill may be broken similarly, but a different number of threads in the single will alter the arranging of the dots to join the two twills together; however, when the principle is understood, it can easily be worked out.
A turned-over mounting or gathered tie will reverse any ornament, but while for borders it makes the ornament come correctly, it prevents letters or words from falling in as they should be read. Thus, if the word CLUB were woven at one side of a cloth, as at A, and the harness mounted as a gathered repeat so as to turn over a similar border to the other side, the letters would fall as at B, making them read correctly to the under side of the cloth instead of to the upper side. Instead of making a gathered tie, it would be better to make a plain repeating tie for the second border, making the word CLUB on both borders as either A or B, according as they are to read correctly on the under or upper side of the cloth; but if it is desired to make the letters read correctly from both sides or edges of the cloth, as at C, it is plain that there must be hooks in the jacquard to work each border independently, as one is not a repeat of the other. Of course letters on damask will only read correctly on either the face or back of the cloth, not on both. The same principle holds good when putting names across the cloth, or for coats of arms and mottoes in the centre, as is frequently done in quilts, tablecloths, &c., but in this case it would be the cards that would do the work. Suppose the word HOTEL to be put across a cloth at one end, and it was required to have the same at the opposite end to read similarly from that end of the cloth, it would require to be painted thus, [Illustration: Inverted and reversed HOTEL], or the cards might be cut from the painting of the former, turned upside down. Provided it was required to make these words read correctly on the under side of the cloth in the loom instead of on the upper side, then the first border would be painted and cut as [Illustration: Mirrored HOTEL] and the second border as [Illustration: Inverted HOTEL] This will be best understood by printing the letters on tracing paper and turning it round into the position required. In case of a motto or coat of arms wanted for a large cloth with two centres in it, one centre to be correct from one end of the cloth, and the other from the opposite end, as shown by the girdles at A and B, Fig. 87, the painting would be as in this figure if the upper side of the cloth is to be the right side, but if the under side is to be the right side, the first centre would require to be painted as shown in Fig. 88, and the second one would be as this turned round, the top where the bottom is, not turned over. It might be thought that the same painting would do for both; either that cutting the cards from top to bottom, or backwards, or lacing them backwards, or working them backwards on the loom, would do for the second centre; but it would not unless the cards were turned over as well--that is, to have the outsides of the cards turned inwards, and the right-hand end to the left. This would suit if it could be done, but could only be done when the jacquards are made with an equal number of needles to each side of the machine, as 25 rows, or 200 needles, to each half of the card for a 400 machine, instead of 26 rows to one side and 25 to the other, making 408 needles, as is usually the case.