In the evening I was greatly interested in watching what was going on in the family boats, called _sampans_, which were anchored between our boat and the shore. I counted from the steamer 164 of them, with their sterns towards us. Each boat had a kerosene-oil stove, and in a frying-pan they were preparing their suppers, which consisted apparently of rice. I noticed that when the woman who was stirring the food wished to moisten it, she dipped water from the river, in which was floating all the filth of the great city. Each member of the family had a bowl which he dipped into the food, and proceeded to eat with chopsticks.
There are many thousand of such boats on the river, the only homes of their occupants.
We spent another day in Canton, going about in sedan chairs, steamers, and _sampans_, and saw many places and objects of interest; but two days have been quite enough for this city, and I was glad to get aboard the fine steamer _Honam_, Captain Febor, which left at 5.30 P.M., and arrived at Hong-Kong at 1 A.M., we all going directly to the rooms retained for us at the hotel. Here I had the pleasure of meeting a lady from New York, Mrs. R. H. L. Townsend, who is making a tour around the world, accompanied by another lady, and has accomplished the trip thus far without trouble, being everywhere received with distinguished consideration.
We have been detained here ten days, awaiting the arrival of a P. and O. steamer, for which we were booked, but have passed the time in a very delightful manner.
I went nearly every day to the park and public gardens, of about twenty acres, situated several hundred feet above the main street, laid out in the best manner, and containing a great variety of trees and flowers, such as grow only in tropical climates. On one occasion a friend and myself were sitting on a bench near a handsomely dressed Chinese gentleman. My friend said: "See what a handsome girl is coming, and how beautifully she is dressed, but how deplorable that she has such little feet." I agreed with him, and said it was a pity such a pretty creature was obliged to submit to a barbarous custom like that. The Chinese gentleman spoke to us in excellent English, and said: "Do you think so? That is my daughter, and while I agree with you, we feel obliged to make her feet small or no Chinese gentleman would marry her."