Somaliland is rather larger than England and Wales together, yet a short excursion inland to the mountains will tell us nearly all that we want to know about the country and its inhabitants. Our way lies southward, across a desolate, stony plain, studded with dry thorn bushes; it does not seem an inviting country. The plain is narrow here, but further west towards Zeila it broadens out to over fifty miles. A few miles out, where we touch the foothills, we may be surprised to find springs of warm water, issuing from the limestone rock. On these Berbera depends for its existence, as there is no rainfall on the plain 4,5 worth considering. Here we see one of these springs and here is the reservoir. Leaving the plain we mount a steep slope and come out on a plateau; it is even more bare and stony than the 6 plain below. In front our track leads towards a long ridge, five thousand feet high, the Gorlis Mountains; on our left is the still higher range of Wagga. We cross the plateau and climb up the pass to Sheikh; here we see our path by a rocky torrent 7 bed. We must carry with us our own camp, as we shall find little shelter in this wild country and few inhabitants; though when we have pitched our tent for the night, we have a visit 8 from a native, armed with spear and shield, and curious to make the acquaintance of the white intruder. We notice that he seems very suspicious of the camera. At Sheikh we are in the heart of the mountains. From the bungalow of the political officer we 9 have a fine view down the long, steep pass, and can form some idea of the nature of the rugged country through which we 10 are travelling. Here is another view across the mountain ridges.

To reach the highest view-point we must ride eastward to Wagga, across another part of the plateau, dry and desolate as before. Dotted here and there are gigantic red pillars; these strange-looking shapes are not rocks but ant hills; they are 11 sometimes large enough to give us a little shade from the burning sun of the desert. We can judge the size of the hill before us by comparison with our camel escort; and here is a closer 12 view of another to help us. Far away in the background we can distinguish the Wagga Mountains. The stony slopes of Wagga 13 are less bare than the plateau, though the vegetation again is mostly thorns and aloes, with here and there a few cedars. After a long scramble we reach the summit, up among the clouds, six thousand feet above the level of the sea. Here are two views 14 from the summit, one towards the east, the other towards 15 the west; and here is our native guide, Giringh by name, 16 pointing northwards to where, over forty miles away, we can just catch a glimpse of the Gulf of Aden.

The Sea Road to the East — Part 29