Lightning-arresters may be constructed in many ways and of different materials; the ones here shown and described are easily made and efficient. The principle of all arresters is simply a fuse which burns out whenever the wire is carrying a greater amount of current than is required for the proper working of the apparatus, thereby arresting the current and protecting the instruments from destruction. Induction-coils, relays, fine windings on armatures, or a magnet helix are quickly destroyed if a too powerful current is permitted to pass through them, and it is therefore advisable to protect them. When a fuse burns out under a trolley-car, or in the shunt-box of a motor-car or engine, it is because a greater amount of current is trying to pass in than the motor will safely stand. When a fuse “blows out,” the apparatus or motor is put out of commission until the fuse is replaced, but the delicate mechanism and the fine wiring on the field-magnets or armatures are saved.
The simplest form of single pole-fuse is a fine piece of lead wire held between two binding-posts, as shown at A in Fig. 19. The lead wire may be of any length; but for small instruments, where a moderate current is employed and where there is a possibility of lightning travelling on the wire, the fuse should be from two to three inches long. For inside work, however, where it is to be used simply as a safety, the wire may be shorter and finer.
To make the lightning-arrester shown in Fig. 19, cut out a hard-wood block five inches long, an inch wide, and half an inch thick. Give this several coats of shellac; then place a piece of mica, or asbestos paper, over the top of the block, and make it fast with thick shellac to act as a glue. From small pieces of copper or brass cut two plates one-half by one inch, and drill holes in them to take screws and screw-eyes. Place copper burrs under the screw-eyes for connectors, and drive two brass screws half-way down in the block through the holes at the inner ends of the binding-post plates. See that these screws fit snugly in the holes in the plates so that contact is perfect. If the holes are too large and the screws fit loosely, two copper burrs will have to be used and the screws driven in, so that the heads bind the burrs on the ends of the fuse-wire. From an electrician, or supply-house, purchase a few inches of fine lead fuse-wire--say Nos. 20, 22, or 24--and twist the ends of a length around the screws, as shown in the drawing. Perfect contact should be had between the lead wire and the screws; by way of precaution, a bit of solder will dispel all doubt. Just touch the point with a little soldering solution; then apply a soldering-iron having a drop or two of solder on the end.