The captain and mate of our _gaiola_ were both Brazilians of the north 465
A boatload of “Brazil nuts.” The Amazonian paddle is round 480
An inter-state customhouse at the boundary of Pará and Manaos, and the Brazilian flag 481
Here and there our _batelão_ stopped to pick up a few balls of rubber 497
Now and then we halted to land something at one of the isolated huts along the Rio Branco 497
Our _batelão_ loaded cattle at sunrise from the corrals on the banks 500
The captain of my last Brazilian _batelão_, and his wife 500
Though families are rare, there is no race suicide along the Rio Branco 501
Dom Antonito and one of the ant-hills that dot the open campo of the upper Rio Branco 508
I crossed the boundary between Brazil and British Guiana in a leaky craft belonging to Ben Hart, who lived on the further bank of the Mahú 508
Hart had built himself a native house on the extreme edge of British Guiana 509
Fortunately Hart was a generous six feet or my baggage might not have got across what had been trickling streams a few days before 512
We impressed an Indian father and son into service as carriers 512
Macuxy Indians with teeth filed or chipped to points 513
The father and son turned boatmen, against their wills, and paddled us down the Rupununi 528
One of my Indians shooting fish from our dugout 529
“Harris,” my “certified steersman” on the Essequibo 529
We set off down the Essequibo in the same worm-eaten old dugout 532
“Harris” and his wife at one of their evening campfires 533
High Street, Georgetown, capital of British Guiana 540
Cayenne, capital of French Guiana, from the sea 541
The “trusties” among the French prisoners of Cayenne have soft jobs and often wear shoes 541
A former Paris lawyer digging sewers in Cayenne, under a negro boss 560
Schoelcher, author of the act of emancipation of the negroes of the French possessions in America 560
The human scavengers of Cayenne are ably assisted by the vultures 561
In the market-place of Cayenne. The chief stock is cassava bread wrapped in banana leaves 561
A market woman of Cayenne, and a stack of cassava bread 576
French officers in charge of the prisoners of Cayenne 577
White French convicts who would like to go to France, rowing out to our ship black French conscripts who would rather stay at home 577