VIII Prayers by wind-power--Photography under difficulties--A night of misery--Drying up--Two lady missionaries--Their valuable work--An interesting dinner party--An "eccentric" man's tea party Pp. 46-52
IX Discouraging reports--A steep ascent--How I came to deserve the name of "monkey"--Hard at work--Promoted in rank--Collapse in a gale of wind--Time and labour lost Pp. 53-56
X The _Nerpani_, or "waterless track"--Exaggerated accounts--A long shot--The rescue of two coolies--Picturesque Nature--An involuntary shower-bath--The _Chai_ Pass Pp. 57-62
XI A series of misfortunes--Tibetan atrocities on British subjects--Tibetan exactions--Revolting cruelty to one of her Majesty's subjects--Assault on a British officer--A smart British Envoy Pp. 63-68
XII Tibetan threats--My birthday--Ravenous dogs--A big dinner--Shoka hospitality Pp. 69-73
XIII Shoka hospitality--How I obtained much information--On a reconnoitring trip--A terrible slide Pp. 74-80
XIV A palaver--To see is to believe--Dangers and perils on the snow and ice--_Thar_ and _Ghural_--Stalking--A tiring climb to 16,000 feet--The collapse of a snow bridge Pp. 81-85
XV An earthquake--Curious notions of the natives--A Shoka tailor and his ways--The arrival of silver cash--Two rocks in the Kali--Arrogance of a Tibetan spy Pp. 86-91
XVI The _Rambang_--Shoka music--Love-songs--Doleful singing--Abrupt ending--Solos--Smoking--When marriage is contemplated--The _Delang_--Adultery--Punishment Pp. 92-97
XVII FUNERAL RITES: Departure of the Soul--Cremation--Amusement of the dead man's soul--The lay figure--Feasting--Doleful dance--Transmigration of the soul--Expensive ceremonies--Offerings before the lay figure--Dancing and contortions--Martial dances--Solo dances--The animal to be sacrificed and the lay figure--Chasing the animal from the village--Tearing out its heart--The yak driven over a precipice--Head shaving--A sacred cave Pp. 98-110
XVIII Touching Shoka farewell--Feelings curiously expressed--Sobs and tears--The start--A funereal procession--Distressed father and mother--Kachi and Dola the worse for drink--Anxious moments--The bridge destroyed Pp. 111-115
XIX A dangerous track--Perilous passage--A curious bridge over a precipice--Pathetic Shoka custom--Small misadventures--A grand reception--Tea for all tastes Pp. 116-119