Valparaiso.--Principal South American Port of the Pacific.--A Good Harbor.--Tallest Mountain on this Continent.--The Newspaper Press.--Warlike Aspect.--Girls as Car Conductors.--Chilian Exports.--Foreign Merchants.--Effects of Civil War.--Gambling in Private Houses.--Immigration.--Culture of the Grape.--Agriculture.--Island of Juan Fernandez 315
The Port of Callao.--A Submerged City.--Peruvian Exports.--A Dirty and Unwholesome Town.--Cinchona Bark.--The Andes.--The Llama.--A National Dance.--City of Lima.--An Old and Interesting Capital.--Want of Rain.--Pizarro and His Crimes.--A Grand Cathedral.--Chilian Soldiers.--Costly Churches of Peru.--Roman Catholic Influence.--Desecration of the Sabbath 334
A Grand Plaza.--Retribution.--The University of Lima.--Significance of Ancient Pottery.--Architecture.--Picturesque Dwelling.--Domestic Scene.--Destructive Earthquakes.--Spanish Sway.--Women of Lima.--Street Costumes.--Ancient Bridge of Lima.--Newspapers.--Pawnbrokers' Shops.--Exports.--An Ancient Mecca.--Home by Way of Europe. 355
Commencement of a Long Journey.--The Gulf Stream.--Hayti.--Sighting St. Thomas.--Ship Rock.--Expert Divers.--Fidgety Old Lady.--An Important Island.--The Old Slaver.--Aborigines.--St. Thomas Cigars.--Population.--Tri-Mountain.--Negro Paradise.--Hurricanes.--Variety of Fish.--Coaling Ship.--The Firefly Dane.--A Weird Scene.--An Antique Anchor.
In starting upon foreign travel, one drops into the familiar routine on shipboard much after the same fashion wherever bound, whether crossing the Atlantic eastward, or steaming to the south through the waters of the Caribbean Sea; whether in a Peninsular and Oriental ship in the Indian Ocean, or on a White Star liner in the Pacific bound for Japan. The steward brings a cup of hot coffee and a slice of dry toast to one's cabin soon after the sun rises, as a sort of eye-opener; and having swallowed that excellent stimulant, one feels better fortified for the struggle to dress on the uneven floor of a rolling and pitching ship. Then comes the brief promenade on deck before breakfast, a liberal inhalation of fresh air insuring a good appetite. There is no hurry at this meal. There is so little to do at sea, and so much time to do it in, that passengers are apt to linger at table as a pastime, and even multiply their meals in number. As a rule, we make up our mind to follow some instructive course of reading while at sea, but, alas! we never fulfill the good resolution. An entire change of habits and associations for the time being is not favorable to such a purpose. The tonic of the sea braces one up to an unwonted degree, evinced by great activity of body and mind. Favored by the unavoidable companionship of individuals in the circumscribed space of a ship, acquaintances are formed which often ripen into lasting friendship. Inexperienced voyagers are apt to become effusive and over-confiding, abrupt intimacies and unreasonable dislikes are of frequent occurrence, and before the day of separation, the student of human nature has seen many phases exhibited for his analysis.