633. _Double Gathering, or Puffing._--This is sometimes employed in setting on frills, and, when executed properly, has a pretty effect. You first gather the top in the usual way; then, having stroked down the gathers, you gather again under the first gathering, and of such a depth as you wish the puffing to be. You then sew on the first gathering to the gown, frock, &c., you design to trim, at a distance corresponding with the width of the puffing, and the second gathering sewed to the edge, so as to form a full hem. You may make a double hem, if you please, by gathering three times instead of only twice; and one of the hems may be straight, while the other is drawn to one side a little. This requires much exactness in the execution, but, if properly done, it gives a pleasing variety to the work.
634. _German Hemming._--Turn down both the raw edges once, taking care so to do it as that both turns may be toward your person; you then lay one below the other, so as that the smooth edge of the nearest does not touch the other, but lies just beneath it. The lower one is then to be hemmed or felled to the piece against which you have laid it, still holding it before you. You are next to open your sleeve, or whatever else you have been employed upon, and, laying the upper fold over the lower, fell it down, and the work is done.
635. _Binding._--Various kinds of work have binding set on to them, in preference to hemming them, or working them in herring-bone stitch. Flannel is generally bound, sometimes with a thin tape, made for the purpose, and called "flannel binding." It is also common to bind flannel with sarcenet riband. The binding is so put on as to show but little over the edge on the right side, where it is hemmed down neatly; on the other side it is run on with small stitches.
636. _Braiding._--Silk braid looks pretty, and is used for a variety of purposes. In putting it on, it is best to sew it with silk drawn out of the braid, as it is a better match, and the stitches will be less perceived.
637. _Marking._--It is of essential importance that clothes should be marked and numbered. This is often done with ink; but as some, persons like to mark with silk, we shall describe the stitch. Two threads are to be taken each way of the cloth, and the needle must be passed three ways, in order that the stitch may be complete. The first is aslant from the person, toward the right hand; the second is downward toward you; and the third is the reverse of the first--that is, aslant from you, toward the left hand. The needle is to be brought out at the corner of the stitch nearest to that you are about to make. The shapes of the letters or figures can be learned from an inspection of any common sampler.