During my stay here I received a great deal of kindness from Mr. Walker, of H. M. Consulate. The natives continued to the last troublesome and annoying; and I was very glad when my labours in the district were ended.
[Illustration: Pagoda Island, on the River Min.]
ENGAGE A PASSAGE IN A JUNK.--LEAVE THE DISTRICT OF THE MIN.--AN ATTACK OF FEVER.--RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES ON BOARD THE JUNK.--ATTACKED BY PIRATES.--SCENE ON BOARD.--COWARDICE OF THE CHINESE.--PIRATES BEAT OFF.--GRATITUDE OF THE CREW.--A SAFE ANCHORAGE!--ANOTHER FLEET OF PIRATES.--ATTACK AND RESULTS.--ARRIVE AT CHUSAN.--INGRATITUDE OF THE CREW.--MODE OF MAKING THEM KEEP THEIR WORD.--KINDNESS OF FOREIGN RESIDENTS AT SHANGHAE.--LARGE PEACHES.--COLLECTIONS PACKED.--LEAVE THE NORTH OF CHINA.--SAIL FOR ENGLAND.--ARRIVAL IN THE THAMES.--CONCLUSION.
At the time when I visited _Foo-chow-foo_, although it was open to the English as a place of trade and had a British Consul, it was little known in a mercantile point of view. The entrance to the river Min was described as extremely difficult and dangerous, and, consequently, few foreign vessels ventured to touch at this port. When, therefore, my botanical researches were completed, and I was ready to return north to Shanghae, I was obliged to apply for a passage in a Chinese junk, a whole fleet of which were to sail in a few days for Ningpo and Chapoo. Knowing the dislike and jealousy which most of the natives manifest towards foreigners, I had some doubt whether I should be able to induce them to take me as a passenger, and, in that event, I had determined to go down to the mouth of the river, and, "_sans cérémonie,_" get on board, whether they consented or not. I was, therefore, agreeably surprised, when, on sending my servant to make inquiries as to the time when they were likely to sail, he returned, bringing with him the captain and some of the sailors, who were all not only willing, but most anxious, that I should go with them.
The principal part of the cargo carried by the Ningpo and Chapoo junks is wood. This is stowed on deck, and also lashed firmly to the gunwales and sides with large ropes of bamboo which are of great strength. Several hundreds of these vessels may be seen loading at the port of Foo-chow-foo, particularly in the summer season, when the monsoon is fair for their voyage home. The mandarins are extremely jealous of so large a fleet, and will not allow them to carry guns, even for their own defence; evidently fearing that some day or other these might be turned against the government. The consequence of this regulation is, that these poor sailors and all they possess on board often fall an easy prey to the pirates who abound all along this coast.
