THE PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE OF WOOL DYEING.
The various methods which are used in dyeing wool have, of course, underlying them certain principles on which they are based, and on the observance of which much of the success of the process depends. Sometimes these principles are overlooked by dyers, with the result that they do not get good results from their work. It must be obvious to any person with any technical knowledge that all processes of dyeing either wool or silk, or cotton or any other fibre, must take into consideration the properties of the fibre on the one hand, and that of the dye-stuff on the other. Wool must be treated differently from cotton, a process of dyeing which gives good results with the latter fibre would lead to nothing but disastrous effects with wool or silk; on the other hand, processes are used in the dyeing of wool which could not be possibly used for cotton on account of the very different properties of the fibre.
A few words as to the properties of wool as far as they relate to the methods of dyeing may be of use. Wool has the property of resisting the action of acids in a great degree, so that it may be treated with even strong acids with impunity. On the other hand, alkalies and alkaline solutions have strong action on it; the caustic alkalies rapidly dissolve wool, and their use must be avoided in all cases of dyeing this fibre. The carbonates of the alkalies have not so strong an action, and therefore may be used in moderation; nevertheless, (p. 060) too strong solutions of these should not be used. Soap has no disintegrating action on wool, and soap solutions may be used whenever necessary for cleansing or dyeing wool. Ammonia has no action on wool, and it may be used in place of soap if desired. There is one feature of wool that must be alluded to here, and that is its felting property. When wool is boiled with water and is handled a good deal, the fibres clot or felt together into a firm coherent mass. This should be avoided as much as possible, and when wool is cleansed and dyed in the loose condition it is absolutely necessary that every care be taken to avoid felting. This condition is much influenced by the temperature and the condition of the bath in which the wool is being treated, too high a temperature or too prolonged a treatment tends to increase the felting, therefore in dyeing wool prolonged treatment at the boil must be avoided.