Fig. 94 represents a small portion of a design illustrating the three principal effects of this operation.
III. = effect technically known as “shot-about,” derived from one pick, figure up; one pick, ground up; and repeated.
In Fig. 95 a detailed description or analysis of the interlacing warp and filling of Fig. 94 is given.
[X] = figure up. } Produced by the [D] = ground up. } Jacquard machine. × = weave for ground. } Produced by [.] = weave for figure. } journals.]
The two-ply ingrain carpet can also be made upon a Jacquard loom, tied up for double sections. [See Chapter VI., page 48.] This is also extensively used in the manufacture of upholstery fabrics; in fact, the latter mentioned method is almost exclusively used in Europe.
In Fig. 95 the weave of the “shot-about” effect calls for two picks face, and two picks back. An examination of this part of the draft shows that the warp-thread represented by the light pick [1/3] is to be raised, or has been raised in the adjoining heavy pick [3/1]; further, we find the two light picks separated by the raising of a different warp-thread in each pick, which is also effected between the two heavy picks by the lowering of another warp-thread. This places the ground-thread below its corresponding figure or mate thread, or the figure thread below its corresponding ground-thread.
If these mate threads introduced in succession are required to show side by side, either on the face or the back of the fabric, these changes must be indicated on the design by different colors. If such effects are to be introduced when using the common ingrain Jacquard machine, the needles of the latter must be operated at each pick; this requires twice as many cards as are used in designs where the mate thread is always placed below or above its corresponding thread.
Designs for Dressgoods Figured with Extra Warp (one end Ground, one end Figure), and Executed on the Double Section Tie-up.
In the article explaining the double section tie-up, [see Chapter VI., p. 48], as well as the one on the selection of the proper squared paper required for these fabrics, the general character of these fabrics has been explained.
As mentioned in Chapter VI., the machine is divided in two parts, figure and ground; the Jacquard harness is leased one end figure, one end ground, and repeated.