[Illustration: A vine support for a porch]

Of the tender Vines, the nasturtiums and ipomœas are the most common, while the adlumia (p. 3), balloon vine (p. 28), passion vine, and the gourds (p. 115), are frequently used. One of the best of recent introduction is the annual hop, especially the variegated variety. This is a very rapid growing Vine, seeding itself each year, and needing little care. See _Hop_. All the tender Vines should be planted after all danger of frost is over.

The Practical Garden-Book — Part 164

Adlumia (biennial). Balloon Vine. Cobæa. Gourds. Nasturtiums. Sweet Pea. Wild Cucumber.

The Practical Garden-Book — Part 164

Beans, Flowering. Cypress Vine. Dolichos. Hop, Japanese. Ipomœa. Moonflower. Morning-glory. Thunbergia. Yam, Chinese, or Cinnamon Vine (perennial from a hardy tuber).

The Practical Garden-Book — Part 164

Ampelopsis tricuspidata. Clematis of many kinds. Grape of various kinds. Greenbrier. Ivy (by roots). Roses (scramblers). Trumpet Creeper (by roots). Virginia Creeper.

Actinidia polygama. Akebia quinata. Aristolochia, or Dutchman’s Pipe. Bittersweet, or Celastrus. Honeysuckles. Moonseed. Wistaria.

VIOLET. While the culture of Violets as house-plants rarely proves successful, there is no reason why a good supply may not be had elsewhere through the greater part of the winter and the spring months. A sheltered location being selected, young plants from runners may be set in August or September. Have the ground rich and well drained. These plants will make fine crowns by December, and often will bloom before weather sufficiently cold to freeze them. In order to have flowers through the winter, it will be necessary to afford some protection to the plants. This may best be done by building a frame of boards large enough to cover the plants, making the frame in the same way as for a hotbed, four to six inches higher at the back than the front. Cover the frame with sash or boards, and as the weather becomes severe, mats or straw should be placed over and around the frame to protect the plants from freezing. Whenever the weather will permit, the covering should be removed and air admitted, but no harm will come if the frames are not disturbed for several weeks. A large amount of sunlight and a high temperature through the middle of winter are to be avoided, for if the plants are stimulated a shorter period of bloom will result. In April the frame may be removed, the plants yielding the later part of the crop without protection. Violets belong with the “cool” plants of florists. When well hardened off, considerable frost does not harm them. They should always be kept stocky. Start a new lot from runner-plants each year. They thrive in a temperature of 55° to 65°.