There are innumerable styles of cut of shoe, three being the commonest: (1) _Salimshahi_, these are shaped like English slippers, but are pointed at the toe, terminating in a thin wisp turned back and fastened to the instep. They are mostly made of thin red leather, plain in the case of poorer people and richly embroidered in the case of rich people. This cut of shoe is most in vogue amongst Moslems. (2) _Gol panje ki juti_, like English slippers, but rounded at the toes. (3) _Ghelta_ or _nagphani_ (snake's head) _juta_, the toe is turned up, while the back part is folded inwards and trodden under the heel. Ladies usually wear shoes of this fashion, known as _phiri juti_. Women's shoes differ only in size and in being made of finer material, and in being embroidered. Hindu women seldom wear shoes. On the northern frontier the pattern known as the _kafshi_ is worn; this is a slipper having neither sides nor back; the sole towards the heel is narrow and raised by a small iron-shod heel. In the hills shoes resembling sandals, called _chaplis_, made of wood, straw or grass are worn. The soles are very thick, and are secured with straps; there is generally a loop for the big toe. They are known as _phulkarru_ in Kashmir, and _pula_ in Kulu and Chamba.
Shoes are invariably removed on entering mosques or other holy places. It is also customary to remove them when entering a house. Orientals sit on the floor in preference to chairs; hence it is thought very necessary by them that the carpet should be kept clean, which could not be done were persons to keep their shoes on. While it would be considered a breach of good manners to enter a room with the shoes on, an exception has been made in favour of those natives who have adopted European boots or shoes. The babus of Bengal have taken to English-made shoes of patent leather worn over white socks or stockings.
AUTHORITIES.--The Indian section of the Victoria and Albert Museum (London) includes an exhibition of oriental dress; and the library of the India Office many prints and photographs. The following books may be consulted: _Coloured Drawings illustrating the Manners and Customs of Natives of India_ (originally prepared by order of the marquess Wellesley, Governor-General; _vide_ Council minute dated 16th August, 1866) (1 vol.); J. Forbes Watson and J. W. Kaye, _The People of India_; F. Baltazar Solvyns, _Les Hindous_ (4 vols. illustrated, Paris, 1808); India Office Library, 3 small portfolios of pictures of Katch and Bombay men and women; _Costume of Bala Ghat_ (Carnatic), S.E. India (large water-colours, India Office Library); Illustrations of various trades in Kashmir, by Indian artists (India Office Library); R. H. Thalbhoy, _Portrait Gallery of Western India_ (1886) (chiefly portraits of Parsi notables); Edward Tuite Dalton, C.S.I., _Descriptive Ethnology of Bengal_ (1 vol., 1872); Talboys Wheeler, _History of the Imperial Assembly at Delhi, 1st January 1877_; _Queen Victoria's Jubilee, 6th February 1887_ (in Urdu, illustrated); T. H. Hendley, C.I.E., V.D., _Rulers of India and Chiefs of Rajputana_ (London, 1897)--the last three are useful for the study of ceremonial dress; G. A. Grierson, _Bihar Peasant Life_ (Calcutta, 1885; this is a most valuable work of learning and research; in division 2, subdivision 3, chapter 1, on clothes, will be found names and descriptions of every article of clothing used in south, central and eastern India); H. B. Baden-Powell, _Handbook of Manufactures and Arts of the Punjab_ (Lahore, 1872); W. W. Hunter, _Statistical Account of Bengal_ (1875); Hughes' _Dictionary of Islam_ (London, 1895); Sir Denzil Ibbetson, _Outlines of Punjab Ethnography_; E. Thurston, _Castes and Tribes of Southern India_. It is to be hoped that steps will shortly be taken to arrange articles of costume now displayed at the Indian Section, Victoria and Albert Museum, in some systematic order so as to assist students in arriving at a scientific knowledge of the subject. (C. G.)