I must, therefore, again direct the reader to observe Figs. 38 and 39, and attentively read the instructions with which they are accompanied. Having done this, the above illustration is to be studiously regarded, and a marked difference will easily be perceived. The outline, as a matter of course, is to be preserved, and if the student feels so inclined, he can take a tracing and fill in the markings shown upon the others. There is no necessity for doing so, except that it impresses the mounting of a wig upon his memory in a more effectual manner. This wig is intended for a transparent parting and crown, the foundation of which may be either human hair, gauze, net, or such material as is generally used for the purpose. Before putting on the mount, it is best to provide the parting and crown, as well as the hair to be used for the other parts of the wig. Instructions as to length and quantity have already been given. My reason for saying that the parting and crown should be obtained _before_ putting on the mount is, because exactness can be better observed. The edges of the parting work lie on the galloon to which it is sewn; the inner edges of the galloon must come close up to the margin of the implanted hair; “gaps” or vacancies should not be observable, but when the wig is removed from the block and examined, the parting and crown, being surrounded with the galloon, ought to look like a piece of artistic work well set in a frame. Of course, a silk or skin parting and crown may be employed instead of a transparent one, but then there is no occasion to leave the opening in front, as shown in the engraving.[27] In that case the galloon can pass round the head, be continued across, and the whole covered with net; this will impart strength to the wig—a transparent effect not being required.
To mount a wig for the transparent parting and crown, commence tacking on the galloon at the neck, the free portion lying towards the left hand. Proceed, keeping the galloon fairly tight till you reach the lower part of the ear; use more points, and continue till the top of the ear is approached; carefully curve the galloon and make a decided point in front of the ear. Then incline the galloon as shown on the temple, and up to where one corner of the parting is intended to be attached. Turn the galloon and trace the outline for parting and crown, returning to the angle near the centre of the forehead. Incline the galloon sufficiently low (but not lower than is absolutely required) and continue round the other side of the block till the starting-place is reached. Cut off, but see that there is at least half-an-inch of free galloon upon each side, which will presently have to be sewn together. You have now the outline galloon upon the block, which, after careful measurements, must be securely basted. (The “points” and basting stitches sufficiently well indicate this.) Afterwards, it will be found that the galloon is puckered in various places; pinch some of these together, sew through and through close to the block, and fix so as to obliterate all such indications. The inner galloon or “fillet” is next to be put on. This passes round the back of the head (at the neck) and is fastened upon the galloon at each side of the parting. A piece of galloon is then placed at the back, extending from the crown to the lower part of the neck; pieces of galloon being put at the sides, reaching from the top of the ears to the crown. Another piece of galloon is attached to the point upon the forehead, and joins the parting galloon in a straight line with the piece at the back. Springs are placed as shown in the engraving, or in such other positions as may be required. No metallic spring across the top can be used, and one at the back is best avoided, for with correct measurements, and perhaps one or two elastic springs in the neck, a close-fitting wig may well be assured. A reference to the illustrations will suggest other minor details, and, after all that has been said, the learner will know how to deal with them. The mount having been completed, the springs being neatly covered and placed in position, it now remains to put on the net. Given a transparent parting and crown, the other portions of the wig should be knotted. Indeed, all the better class of work ought to be so treated, though, in some instances, a little weft may be employed with advantage, especially if strength be required. However, in this instance, I have designed a knotted wig, the openness or closeness of the net being left to your own selection; regard always being paid to the kind of work you are going to do. When this part of the wig is completed the net ought to “fit like a glove,” and wherever there is galloon, the net must be sewn to the edges of the same.