Materials Listed in Accounts with Hunter and Dick, Fredericksburg Alphabetical Summary of Materials listed in Ledger G in Mercer's accounts with William Hunter and Charles Dick, merchants of Fredericksburg. Definitions are based on information in _A New Oxford Dictionary_, Webster's _New International Dictionary_ (second edition, unabridged), _Every Day Life in the Massachusetts_ Bay Colony, by George F. Dow (Boston, 1935), and a series of articles by Hazel E. Cummin in _Antiques_: vol. 38, pp. 23-25, 111-112; vol. 39, pp. 182-184; vol. 40, pp. 153-154, 309-312.
ALLAPINE: A mixed stuff of wool and silk, or mohair and cotton.
BOMBAZINE: A twilled or corded dress material of silk and worsted, sometimes also of cotton and worsted, or of worsted alone. In black, used for mourning.
BROADCLOTH: A fine, smooth woolen cloth of double width.
BUCKRAM: A kind of coarse linen or cotton fabric, stiffened with gum or paste. Murray quotes Berkeley, _Alicphr_ ... (1832), "One of our ladies ... stiffened with hoops and whalebone and buckram."
CALAMANCO: A light-weight material of wool or mohair and wool, sometimes figured or striped, sometimes dyed in clear, bright colors, and calendered to a silky gloss to resemble satin.
CALICO: Murray defers to Chambers' _Cyclopaedia_ definition (1753): "An Indian stuff made of cotton, sometimes stained with gay and beautiful colours ... Calicoes are of divers kinds, plain, printed, painted, stain'd, dyed, chints, muslins, and the like." It is not to be confused with the modern material of the same name.
CAMBRIC: A fine white linen or cotton fabric, much used for handkerchiefs and shirts, originally made at Cambray in Flanders.
CAMLET: A class of fine-grained material of worsted or mohair and silk, sometimes figured, sometimes "watered." _Moreen_ is one of its subtypes.
CHECK: Any checked, woven or printed, material.
DUFFEL: A woven cloth with a thick nap, synonymous with _shag_. Made originally at Duffel, near Antwerp. In a passage quoted by Murray, Defoe (_A Tour of Great Britain_) mentions its manufacture at Witney, "a Yard and three quarters wide, which are carried to New England and Virginia."
FRIEZE: A coarse woolen cloth with a nap on one side.
GARLIX: Linen made in Gorlitz, Silesia, in several shades of blue-white and brown.