The origin of the term is obscure, but it is interesting to note that in the fur dyeing countries other than the United States and England, the corresponding expression is used: in Germany, "töten," and in France "tuer." The explanation of the process is as follows: The surface of the hair is covered with a fine coat of fatty material which renders the hair more or less impervious to dye solutions and solutions of other substances which may be used for dyeing purposes. This fatty coating of the hair cannot be removed by mechanical means, otherwise the hair would have been freed of it during the dressing operations. Chemical solvents must therefore be resorted to, and naturally alkaline materials are used, these being usually cheapest and also most effective in their dissolving action on fatty substances. Alcohol, ether, benzine, and other similar liquids also serve as killing agents on furs, since they too, are fat solvents. In all these cases, the fatty substance on the hair is dissolved away, and the protective coat which previously rendered the hair impervious to the dye, is now removed. There are certain chemicals however, which normally do not dissolve substances of a fatty nature, but are strongly oxidizing, such as peroxide of hydrogen, hypochlorites, permanganates, perborates, nitric acid, etc., and exert a killing action when they are applied to the hair, in that the hair is made capable of taking up the dye from its solutions. In this case the killing can hardly be said to be due to a degreasing process. The fact that killing can be brought about with other substances than alkalies or fat solvents, has led to the belief on the part of some investigators in this field that killing is more than a degreasing operation, although the removal of the fatty material of the hair undoubtedly takes place. Some authorities consider that the killing process changes the pigment of the hair, which thereby becomes more receptive to the dye. It is quite possible that some such change in the structure of the hair fibre does take place, the surface of the hair becoming slightly roughened, and therefore more capable of fixing the coloring matter. The question is still an open one, and since no conclusive researches have been made as yet, it will be assumed that killing is simply a degreasing process, inasmuch as the modern practise is based on this supposition, and very satisfactory results are obtained.
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Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing — Part 65
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