Came to the M'yusikauli District. King LESSI came to meet us, and offered _Mr. Punch_ a free pass over his domains. In the evening a grand performance, partly in our honour, partly to celebrate recent triumph over the G'yudi-g'yudis, who, under their chief MAKDOOGALLA, had been waging war against the M'yusi-kaulis on the pretext that they were assuming an offensive demeanour. Heard afterwards that both sides claimed victory, but truce declared for a year. Performance magnificent--but much too long. Native dances by _Ikika_ girls in pairs. _T'seriokomiks_ and _T'songandanzas_ also gave curious exhibitions of their powers. _Hackiribats_ and _Kunjeras_ (or native magicians) performed. A wild, weird, lurid scene, strange and fascinating--but a trifle slow.
In Ugoweh; met some Gitalongdo girls, but could not succeed in persuading them to enter into conversation.
On the River; saw _Krûs_ practising in long canoes, and got out of their way. Descended cataracts; shot several rapids, and sent them home to be stuffed.
Came to Desert, and hired camel to go across on, (N.B. These animals are styled "Back-tryin"--which they _are_.) Only eighteen-pence an hour, which would have been reasonable enough, but quite impossible to sit out more than nine-penn'orth. Decided to take an ostrich for remainder of journey. Softer to sit. Ostrich a failure; ran for five hours in a circle, at express speed, and then suddenly turned shy, and buried its head in sand, without the slightest notice; foolish habit for any bird to acquire. Determined to try a quagga--quagga tried _me_, and very soon found me wanting, A quagga is a brute to buck! After all, came back to my old wooden mount--spot better than stripes, any day.
In the Jungle again. Discovered Colony of Highly-educated Anthropoid Apes. Lent them some copies of _Punch_, which are indispensable to all African travellers. Apes delighted--one large gorilla quite hysterical with laughter. Much gratified--till discovery that it was the _advertisements_ which amused them most. Sense of humour of apes much exaggerated.
Reached the Kit'ldrumma District. Natives hostile at first; war-drums sounded incessantly. Fortunately fond of music, so easily pacified them by playing selection from "_Tannhäuser_," arranged for drum and panpipes by LISZT. TOBY taking violent fancy to a "_Spottiduff_," or native dog, _Spottiduff_ vanishing mysteriously shortly before dinner; find this animal considered a great dainty in this locality. TOBY inconsolable.