22nd.—Went to Calaghan’s, the banker, where, for 65_l._ sterling, I received 1788 francs, the exchange being considerably in our favour. I dined with Prince Castelcicala, to meet Princess Broglie and (her daughter) Baroness Nicolay; and afterwards went with them to the Théâtre des Variétés, on the Boulevards, where we saw four “petites pièces,” performed by good actors with great spirit, and altogether very laughable. There were some political allusions, which were clapped with great loyalty, as was also the air of “Henri Quatre,” which was played twice. All the ladies were in morning dresses, with great bonnets. It is a pretty little theatre, and the manner of lighting it is much better for the eyes than ours, and more advantageous for the performers.
23rd.—M. de Bernis called upon me, and said the reason why three magistrates of Amiens had been dismissed from their employments was that they had obliged a gentleman to say that the Duke of Orleans[66] had a right to the crown of France after the present royal family. They had threatened him with instant death if he refused. Their defence was, that they meant it as a joke; but the Government took it up seriously.
26th.—I went out to make some visits, but found no one at home except Cardinal de Bayane, who is old and deaf, but otherwise not much altered from what he was at Rome. I am afraid he has “incensed” the idol, and lowered himself in the opinion of many by so doing; particularly by obliging his niece to become lady of the bedchamber to Madame Mère.
27th.—In the evening, a little before eight, 1 went to the Tuileries to be presented to the King. The guards, who lined the grand staircase, and were stationed in the hall, presented arms as the ladies passed, and an officer showed us the way. We stopped in the salon which forms the ante-room to that in which the Duchesses and wives of the Ambassadors and Marshals waited for the King. When they had had their audience, the English ladies were the first admitted. Lady Hardwick, Lady Caledon, Lady le Despenser, the two beautiful Ladies Bingham, Lady Belmere, and two or three others, formed the group. We had long trains, and lappets, but no hoops. The King was very gracious, and spoke to me in English. The Dukes d’Angoulême and Berri were standing near him, and Monsieur stood by their side: the latter talked to me about Princess Charlotte. We were introduced by the Duke de la Châtre, “premier gentilhomme de la chambre,” and the “grand maître des cérémonies,” M. de Brézé. We passed on to the great gallery, and going down another flight of stairs, found our carriages at the further gate. The gentlemen go to Court in the morning. The apartments were well lighted, and the whole had an appearance of decorum and state which was very striking. I felt a most pleasing sensation from seeing the King in his own palace after so long and dreadful a revolution.