In order to keep the fibers in such a condition (soft and flexible), they should be lubricated often (twice a week) with a liquid followed by a wax paste, usually called shoe dressing. When a brush or a piece of cloth is rubbed over the surface of leather containing the shoe lubricants (shoe polish), it produces a smooth surface called a “shine.”
Compounds which shine without friction produced by brush or cloth should not be used, as they are simply varnishes and one coat on top of the other destroys the leather.
In olden times our fathers and mothers used handmade shoes, and wore them till they had passed their period of usefulness. At that time the consumption did not equal the production of leather. Knowledge of conditions in the great western countries to-day will show that many of the big cattle-raising sections, once famed for their cattle, have been taken up by homesteaders and are now producing grain instead of cattle. But since the appearance of the machine-made shoe, different styles of shoes are placed on the market at different seasons, to correspond to the change of style of clothing, and shoes are often discarded before they are worn out. We have not been able thus far to utilize cast-off leather as the shoddy mill uses wool and silk, etc. The result is that the consumption of leather is above the production, therefore substitutes must be used.
In shoe materials there is at present an astonishing diversity and variety. Every known leather is used from kid to cowhide, and textile fabrics have developed rapidly, especially in the making of women’s and children’s shoes. The satins, velvets, serges, and other fabrics that are used in the manufacture of shoes must be firm and well woven, and are usually supplied with a backing of firm, canvas-like fabric, to give strength.
As to wearing quality the old saying, “There is nothing like leather,” still holds good; but people do not buy shoes for their wearing qualities alone in these days. Style and intrinsic beauty are considered, and have a cash value just as in any other article of apparel.
Each fabric is made of two sets of threadlike yarn woven at right angles to each other. They are called the warp and filling (weft). The warp is composed of yarn running the longest way of the fabric, and filling runs the short way of the fabric. Since the warp is the body of the cloth, it is its strongest part and all fabric in shoes should be placed warpwise across the foot of the wearer, so as to be able to resist the great strain.