SMALL PAN-FISH (_Perch, Sun-fish, etc._).
They are generally preferred peppered, salted, then rolled in salted corn-meal, and fried either in a _sauté_ pan with a little lard and some slices of pork, or in boiling lard. They make also a good stew _en matelote_, or a good _au gratin_. Their chief excellence consists in their being perfectly fresh, and served hot.
should be broiled, and served _à la maître-d’hôtel_.
are good salted, peppered, and rolled in salted corn-meal or flour, and fried in boiling-hot lard, but better egged and bread-crumbed before frying. They should be served _immediately_, or they will lose their crispness and flavor. When served as a garnish for a large fish, they should be fried in the shape of rings. This is easily done by putting the tail of the fish into its mouth, and holding it with a pin. After it is fried, the pin is withdrawn, as the fried fish will hold its shape. Place these rings around the fish, with an additional garnish of parsley and lemon slices; or the rings may be served alone in a circle around the side of a platter, with a tomato or a _Tartare_ sauce in the centre.
There can be no prettier manner of serving them alone than one often seen in Paris. They are fried in the usual manner; then a little silver or silver-plated skewer four inches long is drawn through two or three of the smelts, running it carefully through the eyes. One skewerful, with a slice of lemon on top, is served for each person at table. If the silver-plated skewers are too extravagant, little ones of polished wire will answer.
FRIED SLICES OF FISH, WITH TOMATO SAUCE (_Fish à l’Orlay_).
Bone and skin the fish, and cut it into even slices; or if a flounder or any flat fish is used, begin at the tail, and, keeping the knife close to the bone, separate each side of the fish neatly from it; then cut each side in two, lengthwise, leaving the fish in four long pieces. Remove the skin carefully. After having sprinkled pepper and salt over them, roll each piece first in sifted cracker or bread crumbs, then in half a cupful of milk mixed with an egg, and then in the crumbs again. They are better fried in a _sauté_ pan in a little hot butter; yet they may be _sautéd_ in a little hot lard, with some neat slices of pork, or fried in boiling lard.