When a country weaver shows inability to weave hand-spun yarn, it means that he cannot weave it in the same reed space as he uses for the mill-made yarn. This is quite evident. The hand-spun yarn not being even, it requires wider reed space. The table given below also shows the number of ends of different counts to be drawn in an inch of a reed. Then if the cloth to be woven is meant for shirting or coating and not for _dhotiyan_ or _sadi_, and if the yarn has a good test, two to four ends can be added to the number denoted in the table.
C: Count. T: Approximate twist per inch. R: Rounds on 4 feet hank frame.
+---+------+--------+----+-----+------------+------------+--------------+ | | | | | | Number of | Number of | Rates of | | | | Wage | | | ends in an | double | weaving per | | C | Test.| per | T | R | inch of | ends in an | square yard. | | | | pound. | | | reed. | inch. | Rs. A. P. | +---+------+--------+----+-----+------------+------------+--------------+ | 6 | Warp | 0 4 0 | 10 | 96 | 24 to 28 | 18 to 22 | 0 4 0 | | | | | | | | | | | 6 | Weft | 0 3 0 | 8 | " | ... | ... | ... | | | | | | | | | | | 9 | Warp | 0 6 0 | 12 | 144 | 26 to 32 | 20 to 24 | 0 4 6 | | | | | | | | | | | 9 | Weft | 0 4 6 | 10 | " | ... | ... | ... | | | | | | | | | | |12 | Warp | 0 10 0 | 14 | 192 | 30 to 34 | 22 to 26 | 0 5 0 | | | | | | | | | | |12 | Weft | 0 8 0 | 12 | " | ... | ... | ... | | | | | | | | | | |16 | Warp | 0 12 0 | 16 | 256 | 34 to 38 | 24 to 28 | 0 5 6 | | | | | | | | | | |16 | Weft | 0 10 0 | 13 | " | ... | ... | ... | | | | | | | | | | |20 | Warp | 1 0 0 | 18 | 320 | 40 to 44 | 28 to 32 | 0 6 0 | | | | | | | | | | |20 | Weft | 0 13 0 | 15 | " | ... | ... | ... | +---+------+--------+----+-----+------------+------------+--------------+
If the yarn is very weak and uneven, it should be woven with two ends in warp as well as in weft. This will give a strong texture to the cloth, making the process of weaving easy at the same time. The proportion in this case of ends to be drawn in an inch of the reed space is also given in the above table. If this course is adopted, heaps of handspun yarn that have accumulated all over the country can be woven out without much difficulty.