Sneaker collecting is the acquisition and trading of sneakers as a hobby. It is often manifested by the use and collection of shoes made for particular sports, particularly basketball and skateboarding. A person involved in sneaker collecting is sometimes called a sneakerhead.
Sneaker collecting came to prominence in the 1980s in New York City and can be attributed to two major sources: basketball, specifically the emergence of Michael Jordan and his eponymous Air Jordan line of shoes released in 1985, and the growth of hip hop music. The boom of signature basketball shoes during this era provided the sheer variety necessary for a collecting subculture, while the hip-hop movement gave the sneakers their street credibility as status symbols. Sneakerhead culture has extended beyond shoes designed for particular sports, and overlaps with streetwear trends and styles. By one estimate, the sneaker resale market was worth in 2021.
History
Consumers started to collect, trade and resell sneakers in the 1970s, and the sneakerhead subculture came to prominence in New York City during the 1980s. Sneakers such as the Adidas Superstar and Puma Suede were popularized by b-boys and hip-hop artists, and Nike's Air Jordan line revolutionized the industry with its marketing linked to superstar basketball player Michael Jordan.
During the 1960s and 1970s, street basketball was widely played in the streets of the Bronx. One of the important rituals among the players was "stepsies", which was a game for everyone to step on a player's new sneakers. A clean pair of sneakers indicated that the player was weak. However, with the rise of hip hop music, a "clean and fresh" look gained popularity and the game of "stepsies" lost favor.
Sneaker culture became global by the end of the 1990s. Originally popular among urban black youth and white skateboarders, by the 21st century it had gained a sizable Asian following, especially in the Philippines, Malaysia, India, and China. Sneakers have had cult followings in Japan since the 1990s, where many American fashion brands remain highly covetable. Outside the US, Japan is one of the only markets where limited-edition styles (particularly Nikes) have had region-exclusive releases.
Since the 1970s, there has been a strict rule against combining rival brands. For example, a person wearing Nike sneakers with Adidas track pants would be considered as someone going against the culture. This type of violation lowers a person's reputation and shows their lack of awareness of the culture, similar to forgetting to remove the tag from a designer suit. This practice led sneakerheads to favor one brand over another, resulting in strong brand loyalty. Although the concept of brand exclusively has diminished, the art of mixing brands properly has evolved as streetwear, luxury fashion, and sportswear became significant aspects of sneaker culture.
Culture
Sneaker collectors buy online and go to outlets, sneaker events, swapmeets, parties, and gatherings in search of rare, vintage, and limited edition shoes. New launches of popular sneaker models increasingly take place via online raffles through mobile apps. Collectible sneakers can usually be resold for well above their original retail price, including certain collaborations with various athletes and celebrities. Popular fashion trends in sneaker culture usually overlap with streetwear trends and styles.
Sneakerheads often participate in both online and offline activities to show their enthusiasm in sneakers. Typical example of offline activity is participating in sneaker exhibitions. Some of the notable exhibitions include Sneakercon in North America, Sneakerness in Europe, and Faces&Laces in Russia. Through these exhibitions, sneakerheads show their collections, sell or exchange sneakers, and attend public talks with designers and collectors. Typical example of online activity is making unboxing videos or video reviews of new sneakers where sneakerheads share their ideas and thoughts on the sneakers.