Ferrets should always be anxious for their meals. Rats are good ferret food; but never feed dead rats, as you run the risk of the rats having been previously poisoned, this also transmitting itself to the ferrets. If there are plenty of rats in the place the ferrets will be able to do their own choice marketing; otherwise, when not hunting, feed them either crackers and milk or bread and milk, with a pan of water always at hand in warm weather. Raw meat can be given them two or three times a week, but never feed liver or salt meat. When milk is not handy use water instead. For a pair of ferrets use a shallow pan for their food, the pan to be as large as an ordinary saucer. Once a day is enough to feed them. When you wish to hunt your ferrets at night feed them in the morning, and they will be in the proper hunting condition when night comes. Particular relishes are chicken heads, duck heads, rabbit heads, and sparrows. Dilute the milk occasionally, and change off with the bread or crackers soaked in water instead of milk. Besides this you can feed your ferrets the same as you do your cat, with the exception above mentioned. Ferrets enjoy their meals heartily--they grunt and smack their lips with much satisfaction when fed; particularly so when feasting off a rat, as there is nothing they enjoy more than a good, big, healthy one--turning the rodent inside out and ploughing out the interior with great exactness.
Ferrets must have plenty of good air, as they cannot stand being boxed up closely for a great length of time without getting diseased. I have, since the first edition of this book was printed, invented a model ferret-cage, in which I keep my stock in perfect health and in prime condition. I now make a specialty of manufacturing this contrivance, and have dubbed it "The Sure Pop Ferret Cage." It is of a solid build, but of a convenient size for expressage to any point. It is divided into two sections: (A) for sleeping and (B) for exercise and feeding; connected by an aperture just big enough for a ferret to get through. A (sleeping-room) is one-fourth the size of B and is kept dark, except that it has two small wire windows at each side which furnish perfect ventilation. B (for exercise and feeding) is constructed of wire on the top and the sides around a solid frame; the same flooring serving the two apartments. There is a wide door on the end of the larger section and also one on the roof of the smaller, so that the ferrets can be conveniently taken out or handled and the cage cleaned at any time. In winter it is best to keep the smaller division full of hay; it keeps the ferrets warm and clean. In the larger part you can use sawdust or earth; and another big advantage I wish to call attention to is the peculiar manner in which the connecting aperture is placed, so that the ferrets cannot carry out the hay, but can conveniently get from one apartment to the other. The price at which I am now disposing of these cages ($5.00) is merely nominal, but I prefer to have my stock housed in a comfortable and correct manner, as the ferrets will then do better work and get attached to their new master a great deal quicker than if their quarters were neglected. The above cage is, as I have said, of a very convenient size, and can be stored in the cellar of a house--if the cellar is dry--or can be placed in a barn or stable, or, if needs be, can be put into service as an independent out-of-door house. For the latter use the larger apartment should be boarded up, so that the ferrets are not completely exposed to the rough weather; it should also be kept three or four inches above the ground. If sawdust is used, it should be cleaned out at least every other day and replaced with a fresh supply. The hay need not be changed for one week.
