On nearing the Actæon, the Captain came on board, and we lay to for some time, while a boat was despatched to that vessel for a Russian flag, and when it arrived we steamed on again. Another salute was fired as we passed the Russian admiral, which he was so long in returning, that it was supposed they did not think our boat worth replying to. However, it came at last, with a bad grace, though better late than never.
[Sidenote: THE SYMPLEGADES.] After sailing past the old ruined Genoese castles, which have been restored by some French engineer, we entered the Sea of Storms. Near the coast, which is low and sandy, in the direction of Rivaz, arise the "blue Symplegades," those fatal rocks, about which so many fables had been narrated by the ancient poets; and I expected to behold vast masses of rugged cliffs: but certainly these _geese_ have been magnified into _swans_; for there was nothing to inspire terror on the present occasion, though it is possible the waves may break violently on them during a storm, and perhaps a Turkish vessel might be reminded of _Davy Jones_. [Sidenote: COLOUR OF THE BLACK SEA.] We returned after having gone about three miles out, and satisfied some of our _learned_ associates that, although the element on which we were sailing was called the _Black_ Sea, the water was not in reality of that colour: some of the more hardened unbelievers, however, aware that experiment is the test of truth, actually insisted on having a bucket of it hauled up, and examined in a tumbler, before they would renounce their preconceived opinions.
A long discussion now arose, whether the boat should remain until the next evening at Buyukdere, or proceed onwards to Galata, after landing those who wished to disembark at the former place. After a stormy debate, the first-named proposition was carried by a large majority, a majority decided by the democratic principle of vote by ballot. Notwithstanding this apparent settlement of the question, the captain changed his mind, and, landing those who were Buyukderotes, he left them to find their way to Stamboul, and obtain lodgings for themselves as they could: rather a difficult thing, by the by; for to-morrow evening the Austrian ambassador gives a grand fête, dinner, ball, and supper to the Prince of Bavaria, who is to review the Russian troops in the morning, and leave Stamboul on Monday. All attempts have failed to procure him an audience of the Sultan, who will not receive him, because, he says, naturally enough, "What has he to do with me, or I with him? He is brother of the King of Greece: granted: but why come to intrude himself here? I will not see him; it can do no good." These were the Sultan's words, in answer to the application.